Venom 's Build Thread

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venom

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After a long wait on many parts it looks like we have everything ready for the build of the block and heads.

I wanted something in-between a stage 2 and stage 3 cam. We had these made.


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Cam sprockets to degree the cams.


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Rear look.

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I had stock springs despite having titanium retainers so I picked up a set of Manleys, notice the Manleys on the left tapers up top.


IMG_6846_zpsaef70f29.jpg


Heres the PN

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Ive read many that have had issues seating their rings, with quick seat it will help seat the rings plus some lube.

IMG_6853_zpsbc8854d9.jpg




I also got a new Lokar dipstick.

IMG_6854_zps6af9a169.jpg
 
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venom

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Unfortunately my Crowler titanium retainers do not fit the Manleys since they are a bit narrow up top. I went with Manley retainers which cost as much as the valve springs, something you should consider before using Manley. I also got Viton valve seals.


IMG_6855_zps84b076b3.jpg
 

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Oh hell yea ... So much awesome in this build , haven't seen you around for a while ... The valve train can expensive real quick a lot of people overlook small items like these and then are puzzled and in the wtf state
 
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venom

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Oh hell yea ... So much awesome in this build , haven't seen you around for a while ... The valve train can expensive real quick a lot of people overlook small items like these and then are puzzled and in the wtf state
Yeap and I just found out a new oil pump is needed. Going with the TSS pump, it's pricy but don't want to trash a motor due to going cheap on the pump.
 

Dalamar

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Nice man!

can you tell me more about the cam you had made?
What are you aiming for and how did all that jazz work? I've been thinking about swapping out my cam but want it to be profiled to my build.
 
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Nice man!

can you tell me more about the cam you had made?
What are you aiming for and how did all that jazz work? I've been thinking about swapping out my cam but want it to be profiled to my build.
There's a sheet you fill out at the Comp Cams site. Someone will contact you and you can talk about what are you doing with your car. Track , street, idle, rpm range etc. They don't charge you extra however you pay MSRP which is not much more than the cheapest price out there.
 
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Just got the TSS oil pump with new pickup. Gears are deburred and blue printed. If you compare it to other oil pump gears out there you will see how smooth the TSS gears are. Also has a Viton oring.

4v pickup tube is bigger than 2v.

IMG_6856_zpsa3f95cef.jpg


Close up

IMG_6862_zps9327b55c.jpg
 
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venom

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Ok heres what we have done so far.


Intake valve guides were worn causing a bit of oil to get burnt, here are some replacements from Livernois.


AD4DF99F-A640-4AC9-9FF7-19A5FCD980CB_zpsojzf7rrn.jpg



3v valve windage tray, if going this route you need to use studs.



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Here are a few pics of the custom pistons. Compressions has been raised since e85 likes it :love_heart:


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6EA3C814-3BA2-43E1-836B-3007BBC78764_zpsmhtbst5o.jpg



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Here is my old setup, low compression Diamond Pistons which I will put up for sale.

Before


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A58B6645-600A-4E14-AEF8-A99C503C5197_zpsfhlthdj2.jpg




Cleaned it up to see how nice it looks

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I used some carb cleaner,brush and a type of plastic paddle to get all the carbon off it.


BA2F6C44-6CB2-448D-B756-2F72566356A2_zpspa6scky5.jpg
 
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venom

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I will be using two sets of MMRs coolant crossover deletes. I made a diagram below as its the best way to describe it. How well will it work? Not sure as it will have to be tested but at least I have not used any fitting that will make the lines smaller than factory. -12 is the diameter of factory coolant crossover. The y-block with the radiator cap will be mounted to the set of lines (front or rear) that sit the highest. This is important in order to bleed out air pockets. Something else that is very important is to drill couple of holes in the thermostat so it can read the temperature inside the block. If you do not drill holes the thermostat can not read the correct temperature as its too far away from the block. The other option is to run it without a thermostat but for a street car not too sure that will be a good thing. Since we are deleting the stock overflow tank that sits on top of the radiator an expansion tank is needed to capture the liquid when its hot and it will be returned when liquid has cooled.


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CasperGT

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This build is amazing. Makes me want to get up and fix my car up a bit lol. I love your fuel tank setup. I was reading and you said you have a filter for your gas tank?
 
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venom

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This build is amazing. Makes me want to get up and fix my car up a bit lol. I love your fuel tank setup. I was reading and you said you have a filter for your gas tank?
I have 2 filters for fuel and 1 carbon canister which I made from scratch which I think is what you are asking about. Your tank needs to breath air in as the pumps suck gas out. If you have ever tried to gulp from a liter of coke you will the discover that the container will suck itself inwards. If there was a 2nd hole for ventilation this would not happen. Adding a vent prevents this and saves the fuel pump. If you retain the factory setup which recycles the fuel vapors you will not have this problem. However if you go with a large pump the manufacturer of the pump has a recommended size which is bigger than the stock size. Some leave the vent line open or with a filter at the end but when the gas vapors expand you will smell gas. Charcoal absorbs gas vapor. When you start your car the vapors will get sucked back into the tank. Just like the factory charcoal canister after several years it may have to be replace if it becomes clogged. Since I made mine I can either torch the charcoal to burn off fuel reside or replace the charcoal. Since I can easily unscrew mine and charcoal is sold cheap for fish tanks makes sense to just replace it.
 

CasperGT

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I have 2 filters for fuel and 1 carbon canister which I made from scratch which I think is what you are asking about. Your tank needs to breath air in as the pumps suck gas out. If you have ever tried to gulp from a liter of coke you will the discover that the container will suck itself inwards. If there was a 2nd hole for ventilation this would not happen. Adding a vent prevents this and saves the fuel pump. If you retain the factory setup which recycles the fuel vapors you will not have this problem. However if you go with a large pump the manufacturer of the pump has a recommended size which is bigger than the stock size. Some leave the vent line open or with a filter at the end but when the gas vapors expand you will smell gas. Charcoal absorbs gas vapor. When you start your car the vapors will get sucked back into the tank. Just like the factory charcoal canister after several years it may have to be replace if it becomes clogged. Since I made mine I can either torch the charcoal to burn off fuel reside or replace the charcoal. Since I can easily unscrew mine and charcoal is sold cheap for fish tanks makes sense to just replace it.

So on a stock 95 gt what should I do so it wouldn't make the tank "implode"
 
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venom

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Finally got the MMR coolant delete and WoW, impressive. I had ordered some other delete kit and I was not impressed by the quality and the size of the fittings. I really like the one piece fitting. Making a few changes with some stainless steel bolts and welding a -16 fitting. You could get these with a -16an but I want to keep my options open just in case I went with only one of the water manifolds. I did not take a pic of the o-rings but it is included along with the hex bolts.



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Going to change the expansion tank line to a -4 an

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You can see that on the under side, you can put a sensor.

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Here you can see that it has two ports. Unfortunately MMR is not very descriptive and a lot of 96-98 owners have gone another route since MMR does not state they have provisions for two sensors.

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You can see that they are flared in the inside.

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