Venom 's Build Thread

venom · May 22, 2014

Revised the thermostat housing. Since I live in a hot climate warming up the car won't be as much of an issue. The 3/8 will circulate water into the block bypassing the radiator. Since the bypass is not going through the radiator it should warm up quicker. Once the thermostat is open the water takes the path of less resistance which is the -16s. It's the same concept as most have done with drilling holes into the thermostat when they delete the crossover. The other 2 ports are for adding temp sensors if I want to monitor temps from that spot in he cooling system.

venom · Jun 24, 2014

Here is the thermostat block and tee.

Bypass

Inside look

One port is the bypass and other is for a temp sensor just in case I want to measure temp coming out of radiator.

Musturd · Jun 24, 2014

Looks like some fancy billet thermostat action going on

venom · Jul 10, 2014

Installed the O-ringed fitting and hose ends. So far things are looking great. Despite me taking forever it looks like I will be able to hide this huge block.

venom · Jul 14, 2014

Going to try and get things done on a weekly basis as I want to move the build forward. I was able to mount the coolant block and remove the main harness and CPU. I have plans for a Mega Squirt plus it provides for a cleaner look without all those factory wires.

Stock harness

There is a lot of clearance for lines.

Its easier to remove glove box and insulation to get factory ECU and bracket out of the way.

Top view of -16 lines

Took a while to get things lined up as the A/C lines had to clear as well but not shown in the pics.

Here is the inside shot, the lines will be inside the fender toward the top where there is dead space. I have recently found out that Fragola released 3 weeks ago a -20 AN push loc hose like the one I an using. Unfortunately it came to late for me but others may want to go this route. You can double up on aluminum brackets if you don't have some thing thick enough to support something heavy instead of using steel. Not too pretty but it works and not seen. Will focus on pretty things up top where its seen.

the.greg · Jul 15, 2014

Keep up the good work, love seeing updates on this build.

venom · Aug 27, 2014

Got some items in and ran some lines.

Flex fuel sensor and gauge. With this I can run reg gas and E85 as well as know instantly if I got some low end e85.

Current mock-up progress. Bunch of tape to protect shiny parts.

Fox body pressure cap since I dumped the stock setup.

Here You can see the lines running under the intake. Goodbye to coolant crossover.

Remote mount oil filter. Decided to mount it on the bumper where there is dead space. Ignore the rusted bolts as they will be replace with stainless once I complete the mockup.

Closeup. It has two inlets and outlets.

Another view

FRPP water housing

Here is the bypass tee 1.75 radiator to 2.0 FRPP housing.

Bypass at the thermostat housing

Musturd · Aug 27, 2014

Damn things are looking good like usual . I can't wait to see this animal all wrapped up

venom · Aug 28, 2014

Fitting for flex fuel came in, you will need Russell 644123 3/8 to - 6an. If you need larger they have a -8an version as well. They are two types a screw on or push on fitting similar to stock. I opted for the screw on with a dab of blue Loctite on threads. It is double o-ringed and should be leak free. Make sure to apply some oil on the o-rings as its a tight fit and you don't want to ruin them.

Locking nut

venom · Sep 14, 2014

Made a bunch of brackets. I do not have a drill press or grinder. I could of purchased one but space is a premium and for the few brackets I needed may have not been worth it. These have bee done with a drill, cutoff wheel and hand files. Next up will be CAI and fuel lines.

Here is how everything looks. Not even going to think how much time I will need. Tackling one section at a time.

Passenger Catch can mounting on the SC bracket,line need to be extended to valve cover. You can see the inlet for the radiator

You can see the bracket I made. I had to cut the dowel and use a section of the original bracket to hold it down and against the rad support. This will give more clearance for an 4" home made power pipe.

Fuel Pressure Regulator. I mounted everything in the back so all the line run under the intake to keep the clutter down.

Driver Catch Can. I need to extend the line to the valve cover.

Here is the bracket for the driver side. The rubber grommets will allow flex.

I made this bracket as the one I had was steel.

Here is the throttle cable and FPR

Close up FPR

Radiator overflow,mock up

Another view.

Pete@FTR · Sep 14, 2014

Nice work, I may have missed it because i just skimmed thru, but are you machining these parts yourself? If so, nice work. Love seeing custom one-off stuff like this.

venom · Sep 14, 2014

Pretty much everything is 1 off. The SC bracket was made by my engine builder as he has everything you can imagine besides a cnc machine. I've made the easy stuff compared to the work he has done on SC bracket. There's so much work that went into the SC bracket that the alternator was severely modified. If alternator fails I'll have to have it rebuilt as the case mates perfectly to bracket.

Pete@FTR · Sep 15, 2014

venom said:
Pretty much everything is 1 off. The SC bracket was made by my engine builder as he has everything you can imagine besides a cnc machine. I've made the easy stuff compared to the work he has done on SC bracket. There's so much work that went into the SC bracket that the alternator was severely modified. If alternator fails I'll have to have it rebuilt as the case mates perfectly to bracket.

Very cool, people underestimate the power of manual machines. I'd say about 90% of my prototypes are done entirely on manual machines

DavidBoren · Sep 16, 2014

Epic build, sir. I commend your attention to detail and your commitment to doing things right.

Your fueling system and cooling system are both top notch. The fact that you have made it so everything fits under the hood is very impressive.

I read all 10 pages of this build, and it was like story time. I cannot wait to see the happy ending. Keep us posted. And great work so far.

MustangChris · Sep 16, 2014

**** dude. this thing has come right along.....

venom · Sep 17, 2014

Thanks to all for the positive feedback. Today I made my own power pipe. The D1 has a 3.75 inlet and a power pipe uses a 4" pipe. I got two 45d and one 90. I did buy a 90d 3.75 to 4 coupler but I did not like the way it looked so I used IC piping instead. Not too sure if I am going to weld my home made power pipe as it is an extremely tight fit. I like the flexibility of being able to move pipes around. I can always weld them together however there is no pressure on these pipes since it does not see boost and will be doing it strictly on looks if anything but I like how it looks now. Ill be getting some panels from Scott Rod to cover the large hole. I will not be doing weld on but the aluminum panel.

I made one of the lines for the catch can. Hopefully it looks good once I make the drivers side one. I used a 3.5in to 4in coupler and cut ooff the 3.5 section. Since it flairs out it will fit.