White's '95 GT "Unicorn"

[badass98svt]

Speaking of starvation and to anyone else that does corner corner racing......get the extra capacity oil pan! Dont starve the engine of oil on them hard turns!

I run the MMR pan on my car. That ****** holds 10 quarts

 

[white95]

I run the MMR pan on my car. That ****** holds 10 quarts

I put 10 quarts in my stock pan lol

 

[weendoggy]

Speaking of starvation and to anyone else that does corner corner racing......get the extra capacity oil pan! Dont starve the engine of oil on them hard turns!

Best to get a pan with one-way baffles to keep oil near the pickup. My Holley holds eight, but on track I run nine. The other factor I'd think about is a windage tray. the Coyote pan gasket has that.

 

[weendoggy]

When my starvation event occurred, it was immediately after several quick direction changes, a hard brake zone that lead into a tight, left hand sweeping turn and then hard acceleration.

…with about a 1/4 tank of fuel lol

Yeah, I could see that on a auto-x course. Even for me, running below 1/4 is a risk, but by shear luck, I made it when I forgot to check.

 

[white95]

If we don’t learn anything, we aren’t paying attention.

I’m sure I’ll sort this out but it will take some thought and planning.

 

[white95]

After much consideration, and lots of comparison shopping, I’ve decided to go with an On3 fuel tank/hat setup. Quite similar to was @lwarrior1016 just installed but a few exceptions.

This is an On3 03/04 Cobra style, baffled tank. This has the fuel basket in the center of the tank and it better suited for my use.




This is an On3 triple pump fuel hat and fuel level sending unit. I will configure this to run one pump and have an 8AN feed and 6AN return line. My current Holley setup will run this and it should jive with my fuel gauge. I’ll also have to switch to a 99-04 style filler neck.



This is the most cost effective (under $800) way to improve my fueling situation, leave room for growth if the need arises and with the least amount of down time.

 

[ttocs]

did ya consider an external pump?

 

[lwarrior1016]

did ya consider an external pump?

Man, I ran an external pump on my car for a while and it was miserable. It gets way too hot down here and it vapor locked my engine a few times.

 

[white95]

did ya consider an external pump?

Yes I did and I’ll be able to reuse my existing lines with this setup.

 

[white95]

Man, I ran an external pump on my car for a while and it was miserable. It gets way too hot down here and it vapor locked my engine a few times.

Damn. I forgot about that.

 

[weendoggy]

So that tank has the baffeled area just like your old tank? If so, that might help, and if at all possible, I'd put the return line feeding right into that sump. If not, I see the hydramat issue rising again.

 

[white95]

So that tank has the baffeled area just like your old tank? If so, that might help, and if at all possible, I'd put the return line feeding right into that sump. If not, I see the hydramat issue rising again.

I’m looking for additional pictures of the tanks internals.

Found an old thread on corral:

For Sale - On 3 Performance 03 / 04 Style Baffled Gas...

www.corral.net

I’m not entirely sure how the return registers fuel back into the tank but I do agree with the point you’re making. The pump hangers I’ve been currently using puts the return fuel flow at the bottom of the tank instead of at the upper portion which causes unnecessary aeration.

Edit: the return does enter the basket in the center of the tank. It appears this nipple can be lengthened, if necessary, to prevent undue aeration in the sump.

 

[weendoggy]

You may just want to give it a try before extending the return. I have mine about the same depth returning and don't have issues. That thought did cross my mind when doing the mod, but unless the tank is damn near empty, I don't think you'd have a problem. Or, you could just make sure it goes to the bottom.

 

[white95]

I like the idea of giving it a chance before modifying anything that’s designed to work together.

 

[lwarrior1016]

I put a 4” piece of hose on my return, just pointing lower in to the basket.

 

[white95]

Prepped the current tank for installation. Marked the new feed line and will cut, assemble then pressure test it at work tomorrow.



I’m going to run my vent line beneath the feed/return hard line because I know it’ll have plenty of room and be safer there. This is all temporary anyway.





I could hear my friend Chris Carver yelling at me for having crusty wheel studs so I lathered them with anti-seize.





When I was finished..

 

[badass98svt]

Are those 3.5" studs?
What brand

I'm going to order some 2.5" ARP/Steeda studs. I was hoping I wouldn't need them, but I guess adding an 8mm spacer is pushing it for the stock studs.

 

[white95]

Are those 3.5" studs?
What brand

I'm going to order some 2.5" ARP/Steeda studs. I was hoping I wouldn't need them, but I guess adding an 8mm spacer is pushing it for the stock studs.

Yessir, overall length was 3.5”. Those came from MM and I believe they’re ARP.

ARP Wheel Stud, 1979-04 Mustang, front and rear

 

[white95]

Began terminating my I/O module this morning.





Needed to stop but the locking tabs wouldn’t operate. Pulled one wire out at a time until it locked but there weren’t any left. So, I’ll put them back one at a time and operate the tabs until I find the offender.



Annoying…

 

[white95]

Figured it out.

One or more of the molex pins must’ve been turned the wrong direction. Tested this by orienting one wire in different directions until the tab clicked. Put the rest of them the same direction and we’re in business.





The remaining harness is for sensor power and ground but I’ll finish this in a bit. Going to scrounge for a few pieces of heat shrink for the first several inches to keep things nice and compact and then I’ll wrap it with cloth tape.