ttocs
Post Whore
Its not so much that you ignore her when she bitches as much as it is that your brain now produces a chemical to block her voice. The only reason you hear her is you choose to.
We pay for it one way or another.....
96blak54 Reanimated
- Thread starter 96blak54
- Start date
Its not so much that you ignore her when she bitches as much as it is that your brain now produces a chemical to block her voice. The only reason you hear her is you choose to.
We pay for it one way or another.....
88stang88
Professional Lurker
Fastest way to get someone out of your life is loaning them money.
This always a business deal where he had a solid electrical company and I started s low voltage division for him. He screwed me out of $70k+ and I finally said enough is enough. I took all my customers and haven’t looked back.
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Run the npi headsHere we go again!
Ive narrowed my decision down to either npi heads again, but grind out a different set or pi heads. My thoughts are that i have not fully explored the 2v platform
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Im still pondering about it!
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What little time i have, ive managed to drain the radiator, the oil, and tranny. Removed the exhaust, starter, and driveshaft.
The last re-assembly i took the time to set the exhaust up to be disassembled and able to be removed better, since its a wider/taller 5.4l the exhaust does not match the car and is wider, making it more of a pain to place and remove. Stainless hardware and bandclamps took the frustration level down considerable! This reminds me that i need to go pick up an exhaust flange gasket!
Also bought a harbored freighter tranny jack. $100 got me the one that is scissor lifted, sort of like a factory car jack. Supposedly handles 450# which is more than capable to handle the stock T45. I was using a low profile roll around floor jack with a tranny jack adapter. It was junk and to tall. Once the tranny was down, i still had to man handle by rolling the tranny off of the jack. The tall jack plus tranny height was to much for how high i have the car lifted. But with this new jack, it should drop and roll out clear!
The last re-assembly i took the time to set the exhaust up to be disassembled and able to be removed better, since its a wider/taller 5.4l the exhaust does not match the car and is wider, making it more of a pain to place and remove. Stainless hardware and bandclamps took the frustration level down considerable! This reminds me that i need to go pick up an exhaust flange gasket!
Also bought a harbored freighter tranny jack. $100 got me the one that is scissor lifted, sort of like a factory car jack. Supposedly handles 450# which is more than capable to handle the stock T45. I was using a low profile roll around floor jack with a tranny jack adapter. It was junk and to tall. Once the tranny was down, i still had to man handle by rolling the tranny off of the jack. The tall jack plus tranny height was to much for how high i have the car lifted. But with this new jack, it should drop and roll out clear!
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Scored a junk 09 5.4l 2v for $100 today. These are the 9thread sparkplug hole heads. Sometime after 03 all modular heads were 9thread. The #7 rod spun a bearing. As far as i can tell bores look good. When rotating with a ratchet, it has strong compression.
Ill get it torn down here shortly. Check the cylinder walls and try to figure out why the rod bearing spun. My best guess is thick oil or no oil and high rpm.
Im still debating whether to re-use the npi heads that are on the car now or move on over to pi heads. And also their is the 4v options, but no intake manifold stumps me.
I
Ill get it torn down here shortly. Check the cylinder walls and try to figure out why the rod bearing spun. My best guess is thick oil or no oil and high rpm.
Im still debating whether to re-use the npi heads that are on the car now or move on over to pi heads. And also their is the 4v options, but no intake manifold stumps me.
I
I vote 4 valve with a big blower on top.
Termi’s big brother!!!!!!! [emoji38]
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Termi’s big brother!!!!!!! [emoji38]
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I grabbed one head today, started the break down process. All looks to be typical! Appears to be no damage to this head from the 7 cylinder rod bearing spin. Thinking metal particles could have destroyed the cam bearing surfaces, because particles were present in the oil supply holes when i removed the cams and cam.
One of the chambers had more carbon build up than the others. Looks to maybe be from valve seal leaking oil. Same carbon build up on the intake valve back side too. No extra oil tracking or dirt within the port compared to the other ports. So once the springs were removed i checked the valves side play to gage the wear amount of the valve guide. It was the better valve compared to the others exhaust valve, so it has to be the valve seal.
Pulling that valve out felt like it had no seal on it at all. The seal creates drag when pulling the valve out and typically catches on the keeper grooves. Not the case here. I took a look
around to be sure one was there. It was there!....just junk. Also, oddly enough, a few of the other intake and exhaust valves had what i felt was a tremendous amount of side play representing a worn guide, but the valve seal was good and tight....go figure.
Checking valve guide wear on the end echaust valve werehoriible....and i
One of the chambers had more carbon build up than the others. Looks to maybe be from valve seal leaking oil. Same carbon build up on the intake valve back side too. No extra oil tracking or dirt within the port compared to the other ports. So once the springs were removed i checked the valves side play to gage the wear amount of the valve guide. It was the better valve compared to the others exhaust valve, so it has to be the valve seal.
Pulling that valve out felt like it had no seal on it at all. The seal creates drag when pulling the valve out and typically catches on the keeper grooves. Not the case here. I took a look
around to be sure one was there. It was there!....just junk. Also, oddly enough, a few of the other intake and exhaust valves had what i felt was a tremendous amount of side play representing a worn guide, but the valve seal was good and tight....go figure.
Checking valve guide wear on the end echaust valve werehoriible....and i
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Top pic is a high mileage valve seal from a pi head of an unknown engine. Lower pic is a high mileage valve seal from the pi heads im currently working on, suspect high mileage. Both from separate engines.
Examine the seals lip around the shaft? ( LOL ) Notice the top pic is more snug and the lower pic has more gap. Ill note here that all seals within each head were identical in appearance. No difference between exhaust and intake. Top pic head seals were tight and soft like they should be. Lower pic head seals gapped and hard compared to top pic head.
For the lower pic head, i suspect an oil additive was added some point in its life or maybe "high mileage" type oil was use. Could have been cheap no name oil. In either case, seals harden up and fail. Im a firm believer to just use the oil recommend. Good quality, name brand, simple oil for the modulars. Ford brand oil is a good start! No additives, no high mileage, just oil. Preferably synthetic. (Ill note here, if dinosaur oil was used most of its life, signs of sludge would be present in corners and dips of the head. Head is spotless)
Recall i mentioned the #7 cylinder had a spun rod bearing? Well also the head and chamber of that cylinder is carboned up real bad and the exhaust valve had a thick layer of carbon on the back side of valve along with carbon build up on the valve seat.
All this extra in chamber carbon build up due to leaky valve seals cause pre-ignition. Oil doesnt burn clean and produces tons of carbon when burned. And is what i suspect took out the #7 rod bearing. Constant pinging along with cheap low octane fuel
Just hammered the bearing to the point of thinning out.
If rod bearings 7 and 8 were spun, id suspect oiling issues. Along with cam bore galling since the cam bore show oil starvation first. Everything oiling wise looks on par to a healthy engine except for bearing 7 and all the carbon within the head.
Examine the seals lip around the shaft? ( LOL ) Notice the top pic is more snug and the lower pic has more gap. Ill note here that all seals within each head were identical in appearance. No difference between exhaust and intake. Top pic head seals were tight and soft like they should be. Lower pic head seals gapped and hard compared to top pic head.
For the lower pic head, i suspect an oil additive was added some point in its life or maybe "high mileage" type oil was use. Could have been cheap no name oil. In either case, seals harden up and fail. Im a firm believer to just use the oil recommend. Good quality, name brand, simple oil for the modulars. Ford brand oil is a good start! No additives, no high mileage, just oil. Preferably synthetic. (Ill note here, if dinosaur oil was used most of its life, signs of sludge would be present in corners and dips of the head. Head is spotless)
Recall i mentioned the #7 cylinder had a spun rod bearing? Well also the head and chamber of that cylinder is carboned up real bad and the exhaust valve had a thick layer of carbon on the back side of valve along with carbon build up on the valve seat.
All this extra in chamber carbon build up due to leaky valve seals cause pre-ignition. Oil doesnt burn clean and produces tons of carbon when burned. And is what i suspect took out the #7 rod bearing. Constant pinging along with cheap low octane fuel
Just hammered the bearing to the point of thinning out.
If rod bearings 7 and 8 were spun, id suspect oiling issues. Along with cam bore galling since the cam bore show oil starvation first. Everything oiling wise looks on par to a healthy engine except for bearing 7 and all the carbon within the head.
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I finally got everything un-bolted, removed, and off the jack stands. I should note this was a 3week process. Sad? ....Yes i know! One would think a covid19 vacation could open opportunity to get things done.
One reason for the delay is the engine hoist jack took a crap. I tinkered with it for a good week with what little frames of time i had between tilling a garden, bicycle riding, remodeling a bathroom, honey do list.....my honey do list is never ending..... you family men know what im talking about. Anyhow, a trip to the new harbor freight store in the next town to grab a replacement jack was the fix. I sure the original jack could be rebuilt with online sourced seals/gaskets....maybe later.
Upon removal of the intake manifold a big problem revealed itself. Im certain the E85 is the culprit here and maybe some of you guys already know the fix but the intake gaskets were shit and only the gasket material around the injector boss was mush. Rest of the gasket seal on both sides of the gasket was good. This was allowing a leak for incoming air and explains some gremlins i was fighting with.
So its a learned fail here(like most of my builds) im gonna go ahead and say felpro intake gaskets are not E85 friendly! Which does not make sense. Most fuel brands have 10% ethanol blend. If any of you guys know of a fix, post a reply.
One reason for the delay is the engine hoist jack took a crap. I tinkered with it for a good week with what little frames of time i had between tilling a garden, bicycle riding, remodeling a bathroom, honey do list.....my honey do list is never ending..... you family men know what im talking about. Anyhow, a trip to the new harbor freight store in the next town to grab a replacement jack was the fix. I sure the original jack could be rebuilt with online sourced seals/gaskets....maybe later.
Upon removal of the intake manifold a big problem revealed itself. Im certain the E85 is the culprit here and maybe some of you guys already know the fix but the intake gaskets were shit and only the gasket material around the injector boss was mush. Rest of the gasket seal on both sides of the gasket was good. This was allowing a leak for incoming air and explains some gremlins i was fighting with.
So its a learned fail here(like most of my builds) im gonna go ahead and say felpro intake gaskets are not E85 friendly! Which does not make sense. Most fuel brands have 10% ethanol blend. If any of you guys know of a fix, post a reply.
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This is where im at now! The reason for the removal "this time" is do to a blown headgasket. Dummy me drove the car a good 10miles back to the house with a popped heater core hose. I thought ehhhh...its a junkyard engine. Gives me a reason for another build, besides the gremlins were getting to me. The car car just didnt run like it did and i had no answer for it.
I initially thought ill swap to pi heads this go around or perhaps move on into the 4v heads, get an intake built(which i have failed multiple attempts) with my new tig welder. The previous welder was designed to weld quarter of an inch and thicker aluminum. This new one is for really thin stuff only problem now is training my body to tig.
Now covid19 came to visit, ive decided to keep things as the are and replace the headgaskets. And now find a solution for intake gaskets
I initially thought ill swap to pi heads this go around or perhaps move on into the 4v heads, get an intake built(which i have failed multiple attempts) with my new tig welder. The previous welder was designed to weld quarter of an inch and thicker aluminum. This new one is for really thin stuff only problem now is training my body to tig.
Now covid19 came to visit, ive decided to keep things as the are and replace the headgaskets. And now find a solution for intake gaskets
Mr. 13 rebuilds here with free advice???? I would strip the intake gaskets of the failed blue rubber on both sides and reuse the black spacer filled on both sides with RIGHT STUFF black goo. Do the bottom side first and set in position with no pressure and wait over night a least. Then when ready to drop on the manifold do the top side.
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DAYUUUUM! Thats a great idea!! And i have plenty of old used intake gaskets to get started stripping!
Good idea OLD H2S
Good idea OLD H2S
RAU03MACH
Legend
Never have seen anything like that
almost like an allergic reaction on the gasket
I am thinking silicone would do the same
ttocs
Post Whore
any chance these could be some cheap fakes?
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That is possible! Felpro, Purchased at AZ. Heck who knows.
I was looking at it just a min ago and noticed the ends of the intake bolts had marked the surface under the head flange...meaning the bolts were to long and bottoming out. This could very well have been the problem all along.
I was looking at it just a min ago and noticed the ends of the intake bolts had marked the surface under the head flange...meaning the bolts were to long and bottoming out. This could very well have been the problem all along.
RAU03MACH
Legend
Seems like anything coming from autozone is junk
And if your bolts were not tight on the flanges and bottom out
That would blow them out , I could see that
And if your bolts were not tight on the flanges and bottom out
That would blow them out , I could see that
