Dalamar's 96 Build Thread
- Thread starter Dalamar
- Start date
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Re: ENGINE PARTS
Thanks for the comps.
I will keep up the pics,
when the parts get here, I'll put them on the runway.
quick pics from last night.
I'm doing some research for parts I wanna add to this part of the build.
Ordered the electric water pump,
wondering about replacing the dampner? not sure yet.
wanna order new coil pax eventually- MDS sux, Screamin deamon, I've heard good and bad. GMS, maybe, still checking on it.
Anyone have any suggestions??
Thanks for the comps.
I will keep up the pics,
when the parts get here, I'll put them on the runway.
quick pics from last night.
I'm doing some research for parts I wanna add to this part of the build.
Ordered the electric water pump,
wondering about replacing the dampner? not sure yet.
wanna order new coil pax eventually- MDS sux, Screamin deamon, I've heard good and bad. GMS, maybe, still checking on it.
Anyone have any suggestions??
Re: ENGINE PARTS
I have the Screamon Deamon coil packs/live wires on my car and gained almost 1mpg with it...so i was happy with it.
I am on the fence with the Meziere electric waterpump so i'll be watching your use with it to see how it comes out. I know a few guys who use them and never an issue but i still don't know if i'm gonna do it.
Ford Racing has a replacement damper but i don't know the difference between it and stock...
Damn i need to get a lift!
I have the Screamon Deamon coil packs/live wires on my car and gained almost 1mpg with it...so i was happy with it.
I am on the fence with the Meziere electric waterpump so i'll be watching your use with it to see how it comes out. I know a few guys who use them and never an issue but i still don't know if i'm gonna do it.
Ford Racing has a replacement damper but i don't know the difference between it and stock...
Damn i need to get a lift!
Re: ENGINE PARTS
i was thinking the same thing, DTP!
nice set up Dalamar!! im gonna run mine, making minor modifications, till it "has" to be rebuilt then who knows... rebuild with PI upgrade, built PI motor or 4V :dunno: ive heard that you make a little more compression on the non PI block with the PI heads, is that true?
DropTopPony said:
i was thinking the same thing, DTP!
nice set up Dalamar!! im gonna run mine, making minor modifications, till it "has" to be rebuilt then who knows... rebuild with PI upgrade, built PI motor or 4V :dunno: ive heard that you make a little more compression on the non PI block with the PI heads, is that true?
OP
OP
Re: ENGINE PARTS
My buddy with an 01 roush has run it for 2 yrs (the wp) no problems.
I like that it will stay cooler, circulate at idle, and you can turn it on if you want, like, say at the track!.
should be good.
supposed to free up 10 rwhp.
thanks for the input.DropTopPony said:
My buddy with an 01 roush has run it for 2 yrs (the wp) no problems.
I like that it will stay cooler, circulate at idle, and you can turn it on if you want, like, say at the track!.
should be good.
supposed to free up 10 rwhp.
OP
OP
Re: ENGINE PARTS
The lift is very handy, from mods to just cleaning the wheels.
My dad and I split the cost, so that was nice. the 67 will see its share of time on it.
I found it online, it was on sale for 3800 bucks... ;D Bendpack makes it.
you need a forklift to offload it, it is all bundeled up, and weighs about 2600#, so if
anyone orders one shipped to your house, keep that in mind!
Thanks Alitl8
On the headswap, yes the compression will go up, to about 10.3:1
but, thats OK, the modular loves high compression, and it will give you more power.
Ive been running it for over 3 yrs.
On my build, its taylored to twin turbo's, so It will have 9:1 compression. :bunny3:
ALITL8 said:
The lift is very handy, from mods to just cleaning the wheels.
My dad and I split the cost, so that was nice. the 67 will see its share of time on it.
I found it online, it was on sale for 3800 bucks... ;D Bendpack makes it.
you need a forklift to offload it, it is all bundeled up, and weighs about 2600#, so if
anyone orders one shipped to your house, keep that in mind!
Thanks Alitl8
On the headswap, yes the compression will go up, to about 10.3:1
but, thats OK, the modular loves high compression, and it will give you more power.
Ive been running it for over 3 yrs.
On my build, its taylored to twin turbo's, so It will have 9:1 compression. :bunny3:
Re: ENGINE PARTS
are you going to be doing the turbos soon? cant wait to see the numbers from that!!! i think turbos kick ass compared to the SC's. seems like there would be less wear on the motor under normal driving conditions and when youre racing the power is where you need it
we detailed a sweet little 91 300ZX TT and got to drive it and show it... talk about wicked fast it supposed to be putting down about 400 to the rear wheels, im trying to get the owner to run it on the dyno. it sure feels like 400+ :thumb: dropped it into 4th and gently pressed the gas to outrun a 02 GT that "wanted some" going down the freeway on the way home from the car show. here's some pics of the car... we coated the calipers and did the detail
[attachment deleted by admin] SORRY HAD TO CLEAR ROOM
Dalamar said:
are you going to be doing the turbos soon? cant wait to see the numbers from that!!! i think turbos kick ass compared to the SC's. seems like there would be less wear on the motor under normal driving conditions and when youre racing the power is where you need it
we detailed a sweet little 91 300ZX TT and got to drive it and show it... talk about wicked fast it supposed to be putting down about 400 to the rear wheels, im trying to get the owner to run it on the dyno. it sure feels like 400+ :thumb: dropped it into 4th and gently pressed the gas to outrun a 02 GT that "wanted some" going down the freeway on the way home from the car show. here's some pics of the car... we coated the calipers and did the detail [attachment deleted by admin] SORRY HAD TO CLEAR ROOM
OP
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Re: ENGINE PARTS
That Z looks nice. I always loved the 300Z. good lookin car.
Man, If I had the money I'd order it right now!
Will be fun to run.
tranny and axles need replaced before I can push that kind of power.
I completely agree, I've looked, compared, got feedback on all the different kinds of blowers.
any blower is good, but I also think the Turbo is best. subject to opinion and goals for the car.
you're right about less wear, it's hard to prove, but it's kind of builds on it'self, no crank drag.
It is also very streatable when you're not on it.
One of the major benefits of twin turbo's is the 2 turbo's are adding their boost together, much less turbo lag.
like full boost at 2400 rpm!
then you can stretch them out to hold boost until redline, you usually get some increase in boost on the top end.
vs a single which would max out or lag at the lower rpm's.
IMO, it's really best of both worlds, low end boost, like a posative, high end gain in power, like a centrifical,
less power to drive the blower it'self, and it sounds awsome.
Well, there's my reasoning in a nutshell.
That Z looks nice. I always loved the 300Z. good lookin car.
Me too!!!ALITL8 said:
Man, If I had the money I'd order it right now!
Will be fun to run.
tranny and axles need replaced before I can push that kind of power.
i think turbos kick ass compared to the SC's. seems like there would be less wear on the motor under
normal driving conditions and when youre racing the power is where you need it
I completely agree, I've looked, compared, got feedback on all the different kinds of blowers.
any blower is good, but I also think the Turbo is best. subject to opinion and goals for the car.
you're right about less wear, it's hard to prove, but it's kind of builds on it'self, no crank drag.
It is also very streatable when you're not on it.
One of the major benefits of twin turbo's is the 2 turbo's are adding their boost together, much less turbo lag.
like full boost at 2400 rpm!
then you can stretch them out to hold boost until redline, you usually get some increase in boost on the top end.
vs a single which would max out or lag at the lower rpm's.
IMO, it's really best of both worlds, low end boost, like a posative, high end gain in power, like a centrifical,
less power to drive the blower it'self, and it sounds awsome.
Well, there's my reasoning in a nutshell.
Re: ENGINE PARTS
im a big Z fan too... you might have noticed the one (actually theres 2) sitting off to the side in the first pic. theyre mine and one of these days i'll get around to playing with them ;D
sounds like my kind of reasoning. i want something that i can drive normal when i want to. SC's are cool, dont get me wrong, i love the whine but turbos are definitely where its at :thumb:
keep us updated!
im a big Z fan too... you might have noticed the one (actually theres 2) sitting off to the side in the first pic. theyre mine and one of these days i'll get around to playing with them ;D
sounds like my kind of reasoning. i want something that i can drive normal when i want to. SC's are cool, dont get me wrong, i love the whine but turbos are definitely where its at :thumb:
keep us updated!
OP
OP
Re: ENGINE PARTS
3 things are a PITA on the removal.
1-the transmission
2-the dam dipstick tube through the hedder, and the back bottom headbolts. when pulling the head.
3-when the dampner won't come off.
A few posts back I mentioned that I call Chris "bear claw" because he breaks stuff. it's not his fault...
snug for me is about 125 ft# for him it must be 300... LOL.
well, check this out:
here's the story:
Stuck
had the puller on it, tightened it as much as I wanted to, wasn't budging. So, chris put a little
bear claw on it, and snap, it pulled the threads out of the three holes on the dampner..
soooo we cut it, and persuaded it with a chizzel, until the center broke, then it came off....
every job has it's stubborn parts.
It looks like I'll be getting a new one
3 things are a PITA on the removal.
1-the transmission
2-the dam dipstick tube through the hedder, and the back bottom headbolts. when pulling the head.
3-when the dampner won't come off.
A few posts back I mentioned that I call Chris "bear claw" because he breaks stuff. it's not his fault...
snug for me is about 125 ft# for him it must be 300... LOL.
well, check this out:
here's the story:
Stuck
had the puller on it, tightened it as much as I wanted to, wasn't budging. So, chris put a little
bear claw on it, and snap, it pulled the threads out of the three holes on the dampner..
soooo we cut it, and persuaded it with a chizzel, until the center broke, then it came off....
every job has it's stubborn parts.
It looks like I'll be getting a new one
OP
OP
Re: ENGINE PARTS
Finished pulling it out last night,
Had a little break in the evening to wash the truck and his car, then finished up about 12:30
Here it is by the C
It was fun pulling it all apart,
hope I remember where everything goes!
Finished pulling it out last night,
Had a little break in the evening to wash the truck and his car, then finished up about 12:30
Here it is by the C
It was fun pulling it all apart,
hope I remember where everything goes!
Re: ENGINE PARTS
heres a tip for the PITA dipstick tube...buy a LOKAR flexible tube from Summit for $40. Its money well spent. I broke a few of the stock doing my head swaps. If your interested i'll give you the part # when i get home later.
heres a tip for the PITA dipstick tube...buy a LOKAR flexible tube from Summit for $40. Its money well spent. I broke a few of the stock doing my head swaps. If your interested i'll give you the part # when i get home later.
Re: ENGINE PARTS
ED-5014 is the part #....Summit was the cheapest place i found.
ED-5014 is the part #....Summit was the cheapest place i found.
Re: ENGINE PARTS
kool...you'll like it, it is much nicer then the stock...the dipstick has a nice handle on the end of it so that will look better then the stock also.
kool...you'll like it, it is much nicer then the stock...the dipstick has a nice handle on the end of it so that will look better then the stock also.
OP
OP
Re: ENGINE PARTS
OK, well I kicked it around for a bit.
I want the aluminum cobra block, but I'm hesitent for 2 reasons.
1-my steel block is in great shape, 34,000 miles, could reuse it no problem.
2- money.
The aluminum would be nice, mains are good, but both blocks are rated over 1000 HP with the right internals.
weight savings is good, that's the main bene.
What do you guys think? should I put it on the card, or use the steel block i already have?
that dipstik tube arrived, it's a nice piece.
41 bucks and 10 in shipping.
The rotating assembly was balanced at Livernois on tuesday and should be
on it's way. ;D
probably next week
OK, well I kicked it around for a bit.
I want the aluminum cobra block, but I'm hesitent for 2 reasons.
1-my steel block is in great shape, 34,000 miles, could reuse it no problem.
2- money.
The aluminum would be nice, mains are good, but both blocks are rated over 1000 HP with the right internals.
weight savings is good, that's the main bene.
What do you guys think? should I put it on the card, or use the steel block i already have?
that dipstik tube arrived, it's a nice piece.
41 bucks and 10 in shipping.
The rotating assembly was balanced at Livernois on tuesday and should be
on it's way. ;D
probably next week
97vertstang
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Re: ENGINE PARTS
get the aluminum block from a mark 8.i saw one once at a junkyard and i still kick myself for not getting it :rant: .most people know the 96-98 cobra is special but they dont know shit about the 93-98 mark 8.thats what i would do, u should find one for about 300-600 bucks maybe even cheaper.the one i saw would have cost me 300 for the long block and 150 for the short block.
get the aluminum block from a mark 8.i saw one once at a junkyard and i still kick myself for not getting it :rant: .most people know the 96-98 cobra is special but they dont know shit about the 93-98 mark 8.thats what i would do, u should find one for about 300-600 bucks maybe even cheaper.the one i saw would have cost me 300 for the long block and 150 for the short block.
Re: ENGINE PARTS
The alum Teksid block is not a direct swap for 2V's. You need to drill a coolant passage in the driver side...very easy just line up gasket and then you'll see where its supposed to go. Then the front cover is different. You can use your stock but will have one hole mis aligned that you can RTV or do what i did and get a front cover from a 94-95 2V Tbird which is a direct fit. You will also need different mounting hardware for the swing arm...they thread in for aluminum block and are dowels i think in the iron block. I got all the hardware from Randy S on Mod Depot and picked up the correct timing cover from tccoa forums for $50 shipped.
Good thing i'm doing the same thing and have gathered alot of the info alread :dancing6:
Good thing is it shaves 80lbs and offsets the added weight of a turbo or blower...i know my blower/intake combo is 55lbs so the alum block helps alot.
And don't pay over $400 for one....look around they can be found for under $300...i paid $600 for mine with the forged Cobra Crank.
The alum Teksid block is not a direct swap for 2V's. You need to drill a coolant passage in the driver side...very easy just line up gasket and then you'll see where its supposed to go. Then the front cover is different. You can use your stock but will have one hole mis aligned that you can RTV or do what i did and get a front cover from a 94-95 2V Tbird which is a direct fit. You will also need different mounting hardware for the swing arm...they thread in for aluminum block and are dowels i think in the iron block. I got all the hardware from Randy S on Mod Depot and picked up the correct timing cover from tccoa forums for $50 shipped.
Good thing i'm doing the same thing and have gathered alot of the info alread :dancing6:
Good thing is it shaves 80lbs and offsets the added weight of a turbo or blower...i know my blower/intake combo is 55lbs so the alum block helps alot.
And don't pay over $400 for one....look around they can be found for under $300...i paid $600 for mine with the forged Cobra Crank.
97vertstang
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Re: ENGINE PARTS
what about the 2v explorer block its aluminum , but im sure its not as strong as the teksid and probably a little more expenisive as they are more low mileage.just a thought
what about the 2v explorer block its aluminum , but im sure its not as strong as the teksid and probably a little more expenisive as they are more low mileage.just a thought
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