Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

ttocs

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I think the only think worse than the nuts/bolts suddenly breaking the bank is the -AN fittings. Those suckers add up REALLY fast and the good - fast - cheap rule is certainly in effect for both areas.
 
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Amazing how quickly "little things" like bolts/nuts/fasteners add up on a project like this.
You are 100% correct with that statement. Fortunately I stay away from places like MMR for the majority of the bolts. Thank you Scamazon.com so it's not a huge dent in the wallet.
 
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After I finished up on green car. My wife and daughter were well asleep so instead of going straight home. I messed with the v10.

So this was an exploratory effort. I will reevaluate the setup next time I am up there. I set TDC on the degree wheel using the adjustable stop. Once set. I put in the adjustable lifter and a new BNIB ford follower.(fancy because I'm a rich bitch)20250821_222558.jpg

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I jotted some notes down here as you can see from my chicken scratch.
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Reference the cam paper work20250821_234037.jpg20250821_234212.jpg

On the Passenger side cyl. 6 it was 114.25°degrees ICL. I swapped the TFS adjustable crank gear to the A2 key way and A2 sprocket tooth. This advanced the timing to be 112.25°. As seen on the cam card the ICL should be 112° cool stuff.


Now the caveat is when I set the stop on cyl1. Cyl 6 goes to TDC only its on the exhaust stroke. So had to turn the crank a full revolution to find all of this out. I found out today when TDC on cyl 1 its cyl 7 on the passenger bank that should be measured. So I will start from the top next time I go up there and get busy.

Now for a technical question, would you drill and pin the crank gears. Or would you tig weld them?
 
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I think the only think worse than the nuts/bolts suddenly breaking the bank is the -AN fittings. Those suckers add up REALLY fast and the good - fast - cheap rule is certainly in effect for both areas.
Yeah AN fittings are definitely in the sap your resources bucket
 
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Made a fixture at work for drilling and pinning the tfs crank gears.
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Next time I'm up there I will finish degreeing the cams so I can pin The gears at work.
 
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No big updates here. My other thread has that coming. Yesterday morning I took the red car out for a nice hour drive north up to the hawks nest. Delaware River gap st the northern end of jersey PA.20250831_092717.jpg20250831_092709.jpg

Car is absolutely filthy since I drive it everyday snd it's parked outside under a lot of massive trees. Should have washed it but I frankly did not care after yesterday's work. Looking good though, any thoughts on a style bar?? I've been considering one as I think they look really hot in New edge card. My only concern I'd it will ruin my daughter's view looking out of the back seat of the car.

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ttocs

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I always liked the look but as mentioned it does cut down on the view and getting in the back is even harder now. I would also question how safe they would be for a rear seat passenger if you do have kids/people that ride back there. I only ever got to mess with one that I was putting rear speakers in and had to remove the bar to get access to them. It didn't seem like a difficult install just one bolt on either side.

Another down side is I thought I had read people have problems with the seat belt guide hitting it and tearing it up.
 
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Ohhhhhhh yeah!!!! She's timed and ready to go. Takes a while to put in 20 lash adjusters and followers. Was kind of surprised. Just like it felt like 90 years and a day doing h head bolts as well as the piston rings. Balance shaft in and were ready to go! 20250926_235622.jpg20250926_235012.jpg20250926_234955.jpg
 
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Timing cover and valve covers are on. IntAKes just plopped up there for the picture. That needs some more assembly and gaskets. Now I can either move it to the cherry picker to do the rear main seal/plate. Rear galley plug and pilot bearing. Option 2 I flip it over and start thinking up the high flow oil pump set up. Then I can do the pan.

Either way will get me closer to starting it on the engine stand.
 
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Gosh you gonna have so much torque! 5th gear gonna be fun tho!
Kind of imagine it will drive exactly like the 302 small block it will be replacing. Only with a blower at 10 lbs
 
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Small update today! Needed to clean my mothers garage so I cleaned up the disaster from reassembling green car. Once there i decided I wanted to put the cherry picker away so I would transfer the v10 to the cherry picker. Once on the cherry picker. I installed the rear oil galley plug with my handy dandy tool.20251130_121606.jpg

Added the dowels, Transmission dowels, rear main seal plate and seal with anaerobic gasket maker(first time using that on a rear main seal.. always used rtv black) we will see if that is a mistake or not. Also popped in the pilot bearing.
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That beautiful seal plate is an Easter egg for someone some day when they pull the tranny. I transferred the engine back to the stand and was investigating my parts pile and saw something there. and flipped the engine over to prep for oil pan and pickup tube planning.20251130_141508.jpg
fffffffudge...

Oh well.. on a brighter note I think I might be able to fit a stock 4v high volume pickup tube. I am planning some careful baffle cuts on the pan and to cut off the pickup tubes crank scraper and see how that goes first.20251130_140443.jpg
 

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Before you bolt down the oil pan, take playdoh or silly putting and get a measure between the pickup tube and oil pan. Make sure its not gapped more than a quarter inch...(thats my rule of thumb of distance, could be more, could be less, but thats what i use)
 
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Before you bolt down the oil pan, take playdoh or silly putting and get a measure between the pickup tube and oil pan. Make sure its not gapped more than a quarter inch...(thats my rule of thumb of distance, could be more, could be less, but thats what i use)
I will definitely give that a go when I go up to the engine next. I'll try and swipe some of my daughters play doh. I cut the crank scraper off the pickup tube and then cut some of the upper windage baffle out so the cobra tube can hopefully make it to its destination in the bottom of the pan. If not. More marking and cutting needed.
 

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If i recal correctly, the mustang oil pan is a bit more shallow than truck 5.4l/6.8l pans.....could be the opposite...i cant remember. But yeah, do check it!
 

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