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Fawls
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Before & After...
My 2002 GT Progress
- Thread starter Fawls
- Start date
- Joined
- May 31, 2019
- Messages
- 1,191
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- 1,494
Mirrors look nice with body color.
Wow total transformation! The mirrors pop! I love the chin spoiler. Good wheel choice too!
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Fawls
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The body shop asked if I wanted the mirrors painted, I hadn't even considered it so told them to do what they thought would look best, they had a vote among them selves and went ahead and painted them, I'm glad they did.
Thats the drift Magic chin spoiler, I have a Mach 1 spoiler as well, it was a toss up which to use and now I have a spare if I need one.
Thats the drift Magic chin spoiler, I have a Mach 1 spoiler as well, it was a toss up which to use and now I have a spare if I need one.
- Joined
- May 31, 2019
- Messages
- 1,191
- Reaction score
- 1,494
The Drift is a nice spoiler. I have one as well. Watch the steep driveways with the long/low nose.
Sweet!!
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Fawls
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I ended up getting a full repaint, the hood and trunk needed paint plus I discovered rust around the windscreen, the drivers door was all rippled, the car was already three different shades of red and the body shop guys found lots of other places that needed attention.
They took heaps of photos of their progress (much better at it than I am), the drivers door had been repaired and there was moisture under the filler, the windscreen rust was removed with a sand blast, no cutting or welding required much to my relief.
They took heaps of photos of their progress (much better at it than I am), the drivers door had been repaired and there was moisture under the filler, the windscreen rust was removed with a sand blast, no cutting or welding required much to my relief.
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I am very happy with the results...
Snorky
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- Feb 10, 2022
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You're selling me on the lightless cobra wing, I like suffering though which is why I'm trying a saleen wing again. Lol.
How much was the full repaint?
How much was the full repaint?
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Fawls
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I would have got one with the light in it but could not find any of the lights for sale at the time, I have since found some but it was too late I already bought the lightless one.
US$7500 (approx. conversion) includes glass removal and install, new windscreen and tints.
US$7500 (approx. conversion) includes glass removal and install, new windscreen and tints.
Snorky
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- Joined
- Feb 10, 2022
- Messages
- 1,426
- Reaction score
- 1,311
It looks really good. 7500 stings but an engine Can easily cost that or more. Puts things into perspective. Very cool, it looks brand new and show ready.
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Fawls
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Because the trunk light is part of the high stop light which was removed to fit the rear spoiler I had to mount a new one.
I got a flat LED unit off Temu that works on 12 - 80 volts and has its own on/off switch as a part of it and wired it into the existing circuit for the trunk light so it works as the original and I am able to switch it off when not required.
I got a flat LED unit off Temu that works on 12 - 80 volts and has its own on/off switch as a part of it and wired it into the existing circuit for the trunk light so it works as the original and I am able to switch it off when not required.
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I finally got around to fixing the shifter linkage, when I installed the B&M hammer shifter the linkage was in the wrong position to adjust correctly, I made a temporary fix with a cable tie, there were two problems with this, A; its a cable tie and will eventually fail and B; there was a bit of play and most times to get to reverse from park I would have to put it in Neutral first then reverse.
I ended up drilling new holes in the bracket on the transmission side, worked perfect and is now adjusted properly.
I ended up drilling new holes in the bracket on the transmission side, worked perfect and is now adjusted properly.
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I never got a before shot but I left the cable tie on to show the groove where the bracket sat before the mod.
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Trunk lining is back in there...
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New seats by Corbeau...
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All of the parts finally arrived to update the instrument cluster and I found some time to do something about it.
First off was to remove the cluster and fit the new white face I got in KM/h from MoMan in Poland and modify the circuit board for the gauge upgrades and calibrate the needles as per instructions from Mark Olson's AccuTach web site. I only upgraded the Oil Pressure and Water Temp gauges.
While I was in there I fitted LED bulbs and had trouble with the bottom row of warning lights. After changing them around to get the right polarity (LED Lights need to be the right way around to work) some (notably Brake an O/D) would still not work and the batt light was lit up dimly? I ended up returning the bottom row back to the original bulbs, with the background, indicator and high beam lights all LED now. All now work as they should.
Next was to fit the sender units, the oil pressure one went fine and I used the existing wire, I ran a 2 core 20 gauge wire thru the fire wall for the temp sender but I did not have room to fit the sender in the side of the block where I had intended so went for plan B and intend to Tee into the factory sender location, I have ordered the Tee fitting but wont be able to finish the job until it arrives.
My speedo was reading low and the Tacho was reading high so I took the opportunity to get them right.
First off was to remove the cluster and fit the new white face I got in KM/h from MoMan in Poland and modify the circuit board for the gauge upgrades and calibrate the needles as per instructions from Mark Olson's AccuTach web site. I only upgraded the Oil Pressure and Water Temp gauges.
While I was in there I fitted LED bulbs and had trouble with the bottom row of warning lights. After changing them around to get the right polarity (LED Lights need to be the right way around to work) some (notably Brake an O/D) would still not work and the batt light was lit up dimly? I ended up returning the bottom row back to the original bulbs, with the background, indicator and high beam lights all LED now. All now work as they should.
Next was to fit the sender units, the oil pressure one went fine and I used the existing wire, I ran a 2 core 20 gauge wire thru the fire wall for the temp sender but I did not have room to fit the sender in the side of the block where I had intended so went for plan B and intend to Tee into the factory sender location, I have ordered the Tee fitting but wont be able to finish the job until it arrives.
My speedo was reading low and the Tacho was reading high so I took the opportunity to get them right.
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Original & Before & After...
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I took it for a test drive with the temp gauge not working, the oil pressure was very healthy, the rpms were within tolerance and the speedo was reading 51 at 50 and 98 at 100 so I pulled it all apart and moved the needle enough to read 101 at 100, yet to test but I am confident all will be good.
I have a GPS speedo in the car for the speedo check and used the diagnostic function in the odometer to check the RPMs.
Just waiting on parts to fit the temp sender, I have run the wire and attached the fitting ready to go.
I have a GPS speedo in the car for the speedo check and used the diagnostic function in the odometer to check the RPMs.
Just waiting on parts to fit the temp sender, I have run the wire and attached the fitting ready to go.
