Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

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vanity plates are cool but I can make a badge out of aluminum to go somewhere also.
Awesome, ill keep that in mind. The only thing that popped into my mind was just a simple Triton V10 badge on the trunk lid. Or 2 on the fenders where the GT badge goes.
 
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Paint turned out way better than i thought it would, the throttle bracket and dip stick tube didnt habe the best coverage but thats alright. Pumped up. Now i need to simple green ir purple power/pressure wash my valve covers, Lower intake plenum and intake elbow. Then i can prep it and paint them with the ceramic black paint as well.

The real question. Shave the valve covers or leave them as is?20220307_162238.jpg
 

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are you really asking if you should go custom? I am dreaming of when I can take my valve covers off and use the new laser to put a cool design on them.
 

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Ford actually prototyped a DOHC(?) V10 in 1999 if I remember right. It was a short decked mod v10 with 351ci that they graphed together two castings to make the cylinder heads. They called it Boss 351 at the time.
 
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^ yes

And, if i remember correctly, didnt they use 2 fast EFI systems set up for 5cylinder tuning?
 

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^ yes

And, if i remember correctly, didnt they use 2 fast EFI systems set up for 5cylinder tuning?
"Another problem was the lack of a suitable engine controller. Nothing in the Ford bin was capable of running the odd-fire V10. So, they couldn't just wire it all up to a single EEC-V computer from the 6.8 V10 (an engine that uses a split-pin, even-fire crank with balance shaft). But, the EEC-V was capable of running an inline five-cylinder engine, so they decided to use two EEC-V processors, one for each side of the engine."

You are correct! So basically ran it as 2 independent straight 5s lol

Fun writeup with great pics here: https://www.motortrend.com/news/prototype-v10-ford-mustang
 
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More ideas for tuning possibilities, thanks for the sparks. Still debating between ms3, holley, or oem/sct setup
 

96blak54

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Their are a few guys here thats been down the rabbit hole of aftermarket tuning processors. They have settled with holley with great results. Im sure they will chime in about what they know. They some of the sharpest minds here
 
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Felt inspired by your push to shave the covers. So here we are. Broke out the high rpm grinder with an abrasive wheel to remove the ribs.20220310_122623.jpg

Broke out the 100 grit DA. 20220310_161616.jpg

Then followed it up with 220 grit DA and some hand sanding20220310_164140.jpg

In all it took probably an hour tops. Will probably go over it some more with finer sand paper, although i dont think it is necessary since that ceramic engine paint is pretty thick.
 
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Well i had tragic leak down test results on my turbo car so that tear down and diagnosis took every evening this week. Woof exhausted. My wife and daughter were at the in laws so i hammered out the majority of the work while they were gone.

As for the forbidden fruit, i was able to get a little more work done this morning. Degreased, prep sprayed, used an adhesion promoter, 2 coats of etching primer since thats what i had, followed by 2 coats of the eastwood ceramic black. Felt great to get that out of the way.

also.. a little something came in the mail today!! 20220319_163248.jpg
20220319_101104.jpg20220319_101058.jpg20220319_101101.jpg20220319_102618.jpg20220319_102620.jpg20220319_125648.jpg20220319_125635.jpg
 
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Looking good.
Thanks man! i was pretty nervous shaving those valve covers since they are NOT readily available like mustang ones. Haha, now i might have to shave my 4.6 covers too since they are off the car.
 
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Glad I found this thread, looking forward to seeing it complete. I was literally thinking of this exact thing when I got my '99. But I have limited funds and already have a 351W block... so I'll be doing something more boring while living vicariously through you.
 
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Glad I found this thread, looking forward to seeing it complete. I was literally thinking of this exact thing when I got my '99. But I have limited funds and already have a 351W block... so I'll be doing something more boring while living vicariously through you.
Haha thanks for following it, i was chatting with the machine shop today, making it my goal this week to pack up the rotating assemly to have it balanced.

The 351w sounds like a damn good time! Compact, easy to work on. Probably WAY faster in a race. Are ypu swapping it in bone stock or are you going to give it a little work over? If so what kind of mods?
 

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Interesting!

The exhaust is a pain. With my 5.4l i took a jegs H-pipe and extended the drop from the manifold mounts and added extra to the H pipe itself. Im sure any exhaust shop can handle this or a full exhaust build.

With the 5.4l, 3:55 rear gears is as deep as i want to go. The off idle torque from these naturally aspirated engine is phenomenal. Same goes for 5th gear driving. Their is no reason to gear down to gain speed.
I know I'm late to the party on this comment but with my 5.4 swap and using a bbk tuned length shorties and bbk hpipe, I didn't have to add any extra nor did I have any clearance issues other than some minor dinging of the headers for passenger frame rail and steering shaft. I also stuck a 4.10 in my rear end and I feel that I could grab some traction through first if I was on a track but definitely just spins through it on the street. my nitto 555s hook up pretty well after the 1-2 shift. *edit should be noted I'm running a BMR kmember on solid MMR mounts and 1 inch kmember drop spacers off of ebay.
 
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I know I'm late to the party on this comment but with my 5.4 swap and using a bbk tuned length shorties and bbk hpipe, I didn't have to add any extra nor did I have any clearance issues other than some minor dinging of the headers for passenger frame rail and steering shaft. I also stuck a 4.10 in my rear end and I feel that I could grab some traction through first if I was on a track but definitely just spins through it on the street. my nitto 555s hook up pretty well after the 1-2 shift. *edit should be noted I'm running a BMR kmember on solid MMR mounts and 1 inch kmember drop spacers off of ebay.
Better late than never!! did you put the headers on the engine in car or did you do it pre installation? And did you install it from the bottom or from the top?

i am weighing out the option of a tubular K up front for the space, not too concerned about weight, although that would be nice to offset. I have been staring at v10 headers online. I see some DNA shorties online. As well as some longer headman headers.

These are the "DNA" ones.. i feel like they will be challenging to fit eith the frame rails.Screenshot_20220404-220351_Facebook.jpg


These are the headmans.. something tells me they might be easier to fit

Screenshot_20220404-215352_Facebook.jpg

Any thoughts?
 

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Better late than never!! did you put the headers on the engine in car or did you do it pre installation? And did you install it from the bottom or from the top?

i am weighing out the option of a tubular K up front for the space, not too concerned about weight, although that would be nice to offset. I have been staring at v10 headers online. I see some DNA shorties online. As well as some longer headman headers.

These are the "DNA" ones.. i feel like they will be challenging to fit eith the frame rails.View attachment 16180


These are the headmans.. something tells me they might be easier to fit

View attachment 16181

Any thoughts?
I installed from the bottom, fully assembled, headers, trans, intake, hpipe all installed before putting it in the car. Wasn't too hard and did it by myself. Im glad i went tubular as the mounting holes in the bmr kmember are slotted left to right so you can offset the front assembly if youre needing clearance, You're gonna be super limited on header options for sure so it's likely gonna be a "buy what's available and cross your fingers" I'd look for whatever exhaust keeps it up tight to the headers the most. Kmember spacers give you all around clearance except the steering shaft which is gonna be a PITA regardless.
 

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