Project Red Headed 3v

evilcw311

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Oh i do!

Theres a whole other set of problems with that...

Twins or single (about a $700 price difference)

Then if i do twins, do i cut and modify the hood liner (where the hood latch would be) so that the piping from the intercooler runs above the core support (kind of like the camaro before the new generation)..

I think the throttle body to intercooler pipe would look pretty cool running forward, but thats Alot of work and would require a custom made pipe, likely one that is oval and it would be a tight radius to make the curve.
Then there is the hassle of the mass air flow sensor and needing to be in a undisturbed straight section of pipe ideally....


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$700 difference, depends on if you want big top end boost or quicker spooking.

The throttle bottle facing forward wood look awesome.

Mass air?!? If going stand-alone then go map.

Need anymore help spending your time and money?!?! :)


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Thomas_W

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$700 difference, depends on if you want big top end boost or quicker spooking.

The throttle bottle facing forward wood look awesome.

Mass air?!? If going stand-alone then go map.

Need anymore help spending your time and money?!?! :)


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I dont need help spending money, i just need more to spend. Lol

A standalone is in the would like to do, but for now i would like to keep it running on the factory computer.


As for twins/single, this will mostly be a street car and likely wont see much if any street time (maybe a little open track or autocross at most) so quick spool is more important.
I’ve got my eye on a pair of 67/66’s that’ll be good for 800hp but also spool pretty well with a .8x exhaust housing....





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01yellercobra

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Personally I'd stick with a single. The technology is at the point where spool isn't really an issue. Plus who needs full spool at 2500rpm? Aside from diesels. Even with my PD blower I'm above 3500 when I punch it.
 
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Thomas_W

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Personally I'd stick with a single. The technology is at the point where spool isn't really an issue. Plus who needs full spool at 2500rpm? Aside from diesels. Even with my PD blower I'm above 3500 when I punch it.

A single would simply things, but im never one to take the easy route. Lol


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Thomas_W

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So this talk of a front mount CAI got me thinking. Its actually very possible and will only need the notch of the inner liner of the hood and no mods to the header panel or core support.

Im pretty certain this will be how i go, its just to unique (ive never seen it on a mustang) to not. I can also makup a CF panel to fill in the notch on the hood to eliminate the need to body fill and repaint it (or i may just paint it anyways. Lol

Anyways, here’s some photos, let me know what you guys think. Btw, the 45* coupler would be replaced by a 90* one. Or if i get feeling really ambitious (doubtful) i’d 3D print a curve piece and make one out of CF.

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Thomas_W

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Man i love technology! Lol

I drew up the hood liner where i need to notch it for the front mount CAI, notched it slightly oversize for the silicone connector, then took that drawing to make up a mold and cut template that can be 3D printed on my large printer. Once the couplers arrive and i verify fit in the 3D printed parts (im printing one of them right now) i’ll notch the hood and prep the 3D printed mold for a part layup that’ll be done with the remainder of the composite stuff i have to finish for other people:


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Thomas_W

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The silicone 90* couplers arrived and i started mocking up the front mount CAI. The 90* coupler turned out to be to much of an angle, i needed something more along the lines of 75*. I would also have issues fitting a clamp between the core support and hood liner, so i elected to go a different route.

I drew up and 3D printed a elbow with a sleeve at each end to slide into the current 3 1/2” CF tubes i have for the CAI.

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Thomas_W

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Not too add complexity, but would oval tubing work better?

Eh, not really. No matter what, the hood liner will require notching.

The air/air intercooler i am looking at for the eventual turbo setup utilizes a top center exit, so all of this will be reuseable for the cold side plumbing as well.


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Burninriverdiver

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Eh, not really. No matter what, the hood liner will require notching.

The air/air intercooler i am looking at for the eventual turbo setup utilizes a top center exit, so all of this will be reuseable for the cold side plumbing as well.


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Nothing like solving future problems ahead of time. Nice work, I'm looking forward to seeing the final product
 
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Thomas_W

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Small change in plans on how im going to do the CAI tube. Instead of molding the printed elbow to make up a CF elbow and bonding it to some CF tube i already have, i have changed the shape of the entire CAI tubing to eliminate the CF tube i have.
What im decided to do is 3D print the entire cold air intake and then just skin it in CF. The more i thought of it, the more i didnt want to invest the time and $$$ into a mold for a single part. I also was second guessing on how well a CF cold side plumbing would last to boost. At low boost levels, it would likely be fine at a 3/32-1/8” wall thickness, but at higher levels if i ever build the bottom end... who knows. So i’ll likely go to a conventional steel/aluminum cold side when the time comes.

So i drew up a oval TB to 3 1/2” round adapter that also takes into account the 2” offset from the centerline if the car and the centerline of the throttle body. It then goes into the 95* elbow, straight down the car, then the maf sensor and filter goes directly under the header panel.
Unfortunately i dropped my maf sensor, so now is the time to decide if im going to just go with a stock replacement or convert over to a slot style.

The original design of the CAI. I didnt like how the elbow and TB tube were angled.

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Version 2 with a Oval to round adapter with the offset taken into account:

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Air filter location:

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Thomas_W

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Slot style. You'll thank me later when trying to tune the turbo set up.

That is kind of what i am leaning towards. All i need is a stock slot maf, which i can pick one up off rock auto for $60, a pigtail (which is $10-15) and i can print my own mounting adapter.

A stock 99-04 replacement runs anywhere from $70-150 for a stock one....

The car needs a tune anyways, so it’ll probly get the slot style. Plus if the research is accurate, a stock slot in a 3 1/2” tube should be good for 500-600rwhp.


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01yellercobra

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What's so special about the slot style other than the packaging? Slot and tonsil meters use the same electronics.
I don't know if they use the same electronics, but the slot style gives a much cleaner signal. It's less prone to issues with backwash. They work better in a blow through set up. Which is what you want to run with a turbo or centri.

I had a BA2400 on my old centri set up. The MAF counts were never that great at idle with it. Plus I maxed it out in a 3.5" tube. I switched to a BA5000 and idle was rock solid at 800rpm. That was with the same 80lb injectors. The car just ran better at part throttle. Both MAFs were used in the same pipe. I just changed the flange over. I want to say I hit high 700's on the MAF counts. That was my big bore set up with the F1A at 19psi.

As I said, they work great in blow through set ups. I hated the draw through set up I had on my car at first. But that was a centri. I ran a BA3000 on my 04 and didn't have any issues because it's a draw through. I recently switched back to the stock MAF for smog reasons and since its running fine I left the 3000 on the shelf.

For anyone wondering, yes, I tuned those combos myself.
 

evilcw311

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Draw through don’t show accurate air temp reads once the air is boosted. That’s why blow through is much better. Your reading the air after it’s charged.


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