beyondEOD

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Okay here is what I've got so far.

Chassis:
MM XL Subframes
Wild Rides U/L Torque Boxs

Rear:
MM Pinion Snubber
Poly Spring ISOs
BMR 1in Springs
Stock rear sway
KYB Quad Shocks
Strange 10 way SA Shocks

Front:
Prothane Sway Endlinks & Bushings
Poly Spring ISOs
BMR 1in Springs
BMR A-Arms
30mm stock sway
GW Derlin Steering Rack Bushing Std
Moog Outter Tie Rod Ends
Steeda 3 Bolt CC Plates
Stock Strut Brace Removed (clearance)
Tockio D Spec Adjustable Struts

I'll get this all in then when funds allow the control arms will be acquired.

I just got the car started yesterday after rebuilding the top end and installing a MS3 Gold Box. Had to tear the intake back down and readjust the rockers. I had them shimmed to high. They were loud.
 
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beyondEOD

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Does anyone foresee an issue with Installing the MM subframes with bolts then have a shop weld them up? Other option is to have a shop do all the work, I'm not sure what the cost is either way.
 
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Does anyone foresee an issue with Installing the MM subframes with bolts then have a shop weld them up? Other option is to have a shop do all the work, I'm not sure what the cost is either way.

The MM Full Length subframe connectors appear to have separate seat bolt cross-braces. They wouldn't be able to be bolted in place.

The MM Standard subframe connectors have the seat bolt cross-braces attached. More often than not, they won't bolt in flush everywhere against the subframe and will rattle like crazy when you drive the car. Generally, you will need to remove paint and/or coatings from both the car and the subframe connectors in order to weld them, so the shop will most likely need to position/remove/reposition the subframes before welding.
 

beyondEOD

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I was afraid of that. I'll try to find someone trustworthy to install.
 

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good read here. I like hearing everyone's version of how to make the rear end better on these things. I guess what strikes me the most is imagining the rear end moving side to side as you corner/turn hard. So in my mind i can't get past why we wouldn't want a panhard bar. But, I've not used one, so its definitely great to hear from guys that have used all the different set ups. Appreciate the information here!
 

beyondEOD

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I've still been researching the LCAs.

Going off my intended use of hard drag launches, Street, Autox. MM says spherical both ends. Plenty of other guys say that poly does not hold up to drag radials from what I'm reading.

With spherical on both ends I'm concerned about NVH. I do not want major whine that is noticeable as I have quite exhaust.

I was looking at the Global West TBF-1 LCA. It appears to be a great LCA as long as you do not goto a PHB or TA down the road. https://www.globalwest.net/mustang-...bearing-1994-1995-1996-1997-1998-global-.html

https://www.corral.net/threads/global-west-tbf-1-lower-rear-control-arms.237180/

Any thoughts?
 

beyondEOD

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Scratch the GW arms. They induce bind to accomplish what they do.

I got a quote to install the TQ reinforcements and the Subframes. $600......ouch.
 

beyondEOD

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Got the Steeda CC Plates Finally. Installed them using the big adjustment holes per the manual. I assume this is where yours are set Warhorse to get the camber you need.

BMR recommends the following settings based on the springs I have from them.

CAMBER: -1 to -1.25 degrees
CASTER: 3 to 4 degrees
TOE: 1/16” to 3/32” toe-in

For Agressive Street according to the Steeda Instructions(-1.2) the Camber that BMR calls for is on the minimum side.

How do these settings look?
 

beyondEOD

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By the way Steeda is extremely hard to get a response out of via email. I inquired about the adjustable bar.
 
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Got the Steeda CC Plates Finally. Installed them using the big adjustment holes per the manual. I assume this is where yours are set Warhorse to get the camber you need.

BMR recommends the following settings based on the springs I have from them.

CAMBER: -1 to -1.25 degrees
CASTER: 3 to 4 degrees
TOE: 1/16” to 3/32” toe-in

For Agressive Street according to the Steeda Instructions(-1.2) the Camber that BMR calls for is on the minimum side.

How do these settings look?

Yes, you want to use the long slots to get the most negative camber.

Because you are using the car for multiple types of racing and street driving, a compromise setting is probably ideal.

You can probably go for a bit more negative camber. That will impact tire wear. I run -2 degrees on my New Edge cars. I flip them at about 1,500 miles (because the outer edges are worn out from autocrossing), and the inner edges look fine. I have no doubt that if the tires lasted longer they would show some uneven wear, but you might want to consider -1.5 or more to help with understeer.

You want as much Caster as possible. If you go to a place that does "competition alignments" they will get as much as they can.

It's a good idea to try to max out caster and camber before you take it to the shop. It's often easier to knock the camber out than in on these cars during an alignment.

For a car that you daily drive, you want the toe-in setting to keep the car from feeling jittery on the highway.

Make sure your alignment tech knows how you intend to use the car. A good alignment makes a huge difference. It's an art form.

Thank you for contacting Steeda. I hope a lot of other people are doing the same thing. I'm planning another round of emails about the Adjustable Rear Sway Bar myself.
 

beyondEOD

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Came across a 2 good deals: 1. Used MM HD LCAs. 2. New M5500A OE Uppers, Rubber Bushings, and MM Busing tool.

So I'm going to try this setup out back.
 

beyondEOD

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Got one lower TQ Box reinforcement installed. I need a 1.75 hole saw to complete the reroute of the ABS sensor wiring.

LCA bolts were completely shot. I ordered new U/L and Front Arm Bolts.
 
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Warhorse take a look at this.
https://www.jegs.com/i/ADDCO/020/677/10002/-1

Looks really close minus the springs that steeda uses.

I have seen that bar in the past. Without the springs, it wouldn't be adjustable. But, it seems like it would be pretty simple for them to continue to make the adjustable version. I emailed Addco about keeping it in production. I'm still waiting to hear back.
 

beyondEOD

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I want to be on that sway bar buy list if they agree to produce more.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

beyondEOD

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It's looking like I'm going to have to order new springs tomorrow pending a call to BMR I dont want to wait any longer for BMR.

I have ordered their 1 inch stock location springs for my 1995 GT. - 525 lb/in front, 235 lb/in rear spring rates

Looking at

HR Sports
Steeda Sports
MM Road and Track Springs

Any suggestions? These are going on with a set of BMR Std Ball Joit Tube A-Arms, Tockio D Spec SN Length Struts and MM HD LCAs with strange SA shocks.
 

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