beyondEOD

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I have seen that bar in the past. Without the springs, it wouldn't be adjustable. But, it seems like it would be pretty simple for them to continue to make the adjustable version. I emailed Addco about keeping it in production. I'm still waiting to hear back.

I confirmed with a steeda dealer that this is the same sway bar minus the springs. He recommended we call ADDCO to see if they would now offer ot for sale since Steeda dropped it.
 
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I confirmed with a steeda dealer that this is the same sway bar minus the springs. He recommended we call ADDCO to see if they would now offer ot for sale since Steeda dropped it.

I emailed Addco and asked if they would consider making the 1STA under their brand. Their response was that the Steeda bar is a proprietary design and they couldn't sell it under the Addco name. I emailed back stating that every 1STA I've ordered from Steeda came in an Addco box, and asked if the only difference was the springs. I haven't heard back yet.
 
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It's looking like I'm going to have to order new springs tomorrow pending a call to BMR I dont want to wait any longer for BMR.

I have ordered their 1 inch stock location springs for my 1995 GT. - 525 lb/in front, 235 lb/in rear spring rates

Looking at

HR Sports
Steeda Sports
MM Road and Track Springs

Any suggestions? These are going on with a set of BMR Std Ball Joit Tube A-Arms, Tockio D Spec SN Length Struts and MM HD LCAs with strange SA shocks.

From an autocross perspective, the Ford Racing C Springs have worked incredibly well on my 1992 GT and 2000 GT (prior to the IRS-swap). Track cars can usually sit lower than an autocross car, but going too low will hurt the handling when the car articulates on an autocross course. If you are using the car for multiple forms of racing, you will have to compromise. If you go too low, you will run out of suspension travel in tight, twisty autocross elements. That can lead to unexpected and aggressive understeer and oversteer.
 

beyondEOD

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The more I work on this car and watch videos the more I want to autox and HDPE rather than drag it.

A mustang group that I'm a member of on FB is questioning my D Spec Struts and Strange SA Shocks if they would be able to control a spring like the Ford C or HR HR Sports.
 
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The more I work on this car and watch videos the more I want to autox and HDPE rather than drag it.

A mustang group that I'm a member of on FB is questioning my D Spec Struts and Strange SA Shocks if they would be able to control a spring like the Ford C or HR HR Sports.

I've used the Ford Racing C Springs with Tokico Illuminas for many years. What specific issue do they think the springs would cause?
 

beyondEOD

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One mentioned that the struts were not valved aggressively enough. I thought D specs were their most aggressive strut.

Same suggested that the strange shocks might be less aggressive than stock shocks.
 
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One mentioned that the struts were not valved aggressively enough. I thought D specs were their most aggressive strut.

Same suggested that the strange shocks might be less aggressive than stock shocks.

I've used D-Specs on my IRS-swapped 2000 GT and 2004 V6 (in the rear on both cars). They have a wide range of adjustment. I helped a friend dial-in the setup on his 2001 Cobra that has D-Specs all around. They didn't feel any more or less aggressive than the Illuminas, they just had a wider range of adjustment (the Illuminas have 5 distinct settings, the D-Spec settings are based on the number of turns between full-soft and full-hard). The D-Specs are easier to fine-tune.

The most common misconception about struts and shocks on an autocross car is that they need to be super-stiff. You will find that the car handles better on the softer side.

I have never used Strange shocks, but if they are adjustable and designed for track/autocross it's unlikely that the hardest setting would be less aggressive than stock shocks.
 

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Here is what Strange lists for the shocks. These are popular for drag racing.

Strange Single Adjustable Rear Shock
1994-2004 Mustang - Will Not Fit IRS Cobra

$89.00

Part Number: S6004LM
Application

1994-2004 Mustang
Except IRS Cobra


Description

High Performance Bolt-In Shock
Rear – Sold as each


Soft Settings
For Drag Racing
Allows more downward force applied to the rear tires

Medium Settings
For Performance Street
Enhances handling & cornering characteristics

Stiff Settings
For Road Racing
Provides very aggressive control over body roll


Rotating Knob Clockwise Stiffens Valving


Features

• 10 extension settings
• Provides a wide range of control
• Easily accessible external adjustment knob
• Allows quick changes for varying conditions
 
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Here is what Strange lists for the shocks. These are popular for drag racing.

Strange Single Adjustable Rear Shock
1994-2004 Mustang - Will Not Fit IRS Cobra

$89.00

Part Number: S6004LM
Application

1994-2004 Mustang
Except IRS Cobra


Description

High Performance Bolt-In Shock
Rear – Sold as each


Soft Settings
For Drag Racing
Allows more downward force applied to the rear tires

Medium Settings
For Performance Street
Enhances handling & cornering characteristics

Stiff Settings
For Road Racing
Provides very aggressive control over body roll


Rotating Knob Clockwise Stiffens Valving


Features

• 10 extension settings
• Provides a wide range of control
• Easily accessible external adjustment knob
• Allows quick changes for varying conditions

I would certainly double-check with someone who has used the Strange shocks, but that suggests a wide range of adjustment. If you already have the Strange shocks, I would install them and try to dial-in the car. Just know that, if they have a wide range, the car will be pretty undriveable on the softest and hardest settings on an autocross course.
 

beyondEOD

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I have not really talked to anyone that has run these as they market them to the drag racing crowd. I'm open to selling them for a few bucks less than what I paid if it's the right call.

I can only find Tokico D Spec rears on ebay from around 215 a pair. I hate to mess with the setup more than once if the strange shocks really should not be used here anymore since I'm moving quickly from the "everything suspension " to a street/autox setup.

Koni Yellows are available right now for around 216 for the pair. (Appear to be backordered everywhere)

Pioneer the strange sa shock and potentially need to change them?

D Specs in rear so they match front?

Koni Yellow since they are currently in production? (Backorder not preferred at all)

@Warhorse Racing

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I have not really talked to anyone that has run these as they market them to the drag racing crowd. I'm open to selling them for a few bucks less than what I paid if it's the right call.

I can only find Tokico D Spec rears on ebay from around 215 a pair. I hate to mess with the setup more than once if the strange shocks really should not be used here anymore since I'm moving quickly from the "everything suspension " to a street/autox setup.

Koni Yellows are available right now for around 216 for the pair. (Appear to be backordered everywhere)

Pioneer the strange sa shock and potentially need to change them?

D Specs in rear so they match front?

Koni Yellow since they are currently in production? (Backorder not preferred at all)

@Warhorse Racing

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It only takes about an hour to swap out the rear shocks on SRA Mustangs. I'd give the Strange shocks a shot. You'll be able to determine if they're up to the task at one event or Test N Tune.

As much as I love the D-specs, they are getting hard to find. Which means if something happens to one rear shock, you will have to buy two new ones from another manufacturer to solve the issue. Out of caution, I'd go with a shock that is still in production. I have pounded on my Tokicos for years and they've held up, but if one failed I would replace both shocks with Koni Yellows.
 

beyondEOD

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Alright, here is what I decided.

I ordered the D specs for the rears. I really want a matched setup front and rear. I'm willing to risk having to buy different ones if something happens in the future.

Ford C springs are on order.

@Warhorse Racing my car is becoming more warhorse with every video I watch lol. I think there is only 1 or 2 videos I have not watched at this point. Some I have watched multiple times.

With all the said here is the revised setup.

Front:
Tockio D Spec Struts
Ford Racing C Springs
Poly Spring Isolators
BMR A-Arms, spring perch, Std. Ball Jnt.
Steeda Caster Camber Plates
Stock 30mm Sway Bar
Prothane Endlinks 5"
Prothane Sway Bar Bushing
Global West Derlin Steering Rack Bushing
Moog Outer Tie Rods
Jegs Control Arm Bolt Kit

Rear:
Tockio D Spec Shocks
KYB Quad Shocks
Ford Racing C Springs
Poly Spring Isolators
MM HD LCAs
FMS/OE UCA w/new rubber axle bushings
Wild Rides U/L Torque Box Reinforcements
MM Pinion Snubber
Jegs Control Arm Bolt Kit
Stock 23mm Sway Bar

Chassis:
MM Full Length Subframe Connectors

Brakes:
Cobra Front (need)
Cobra Rear M2300 Kit
SS Lines(need)
95 GT MC/Booster

Wheels/tire:
Fr500 17x9 (need)
255/45r17 (need)

Future thoughts once car is on the road/track and I learn what the car needs:
Pan Hard Bar
Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Derlin A Arm Bushings (if the poly does not hold up)


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Alright, here is what I decided.

I ordered the D specs for the rears. I really want a matched setup front and rear. I'm willing to risk having to buy different ones if something happens in the future.

Ford C springs are on order.

@Warhorse Racing my car is becoming more warhorse with every video I watch lol. I think there is only 1 or 2 videos I have not watched at this point. Some I have watched multiple times.

With all the said here is the revised setup.

Front:
Tockio D Spec Struts
Ford Racing C Springs
Poly Spring Isolators
BMR A-Arms, spring perch, Std. Ball Jnt.
Steeda Caster Camber Plates
Stock 30mm Sway Bar
Prothane Endlinks 5"
Prothane Sway Bar Bushing
Global West Derlin Steering Rack Bushing
Moog Outer Tie Rods
Jegs Control Arm Bolt Kit

Rear:
Tockio D Spec Shocks
KYB Quad Shocks
Ford Racing C Springs
Poly Spring Isolators
MM HD LCAs
FMS/OE UCA w/new rubber axle bushings
Wild Rides U/L Torque Box Reinforcements
MM Pinion Snubber
Jegs Control Arm Bolt Kit
Stock 23mm Sway Bar

Chassis:
MM Full Length Subframe Connectors

Brakes:
Cobra Front (need)
Cobra Rear M2300 Kit
SS Lines(need)
95 GT MC/Booster

Wheels/tire:
Fr500 17x9 (need)
255/45r17 (need)

Future thoughts once car is on the road/track and I learn what the car needs:
Pan Hard Bar
Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Derlin A Arm Bushings (if the poly does not hold up)


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It's always great to hear my videos are helping. Thanks for taking the time to watch them. I hope they're proving that every Mustang can be a warhorse!

I think the setup is pretty solid. It fixes several of the weak links in the suspension, and it will get you to the point where the decisions about future mods will come down to how the car feels on an autocross course. After a few events (or an entire season), you'll get a feel for the sway bars you want on the car.

And, in your first few events, you'll be able to experiment with adjustments to get familiar with how to dial-in the new suspension. You're going to have a blast out on course!
 

beyondEOD

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I heard back from Addco today about the steeda adjustable bar.

They said the bar could still be produced. They are going to reach out to me next week to discuss purchasing.

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I heard back from Addco today about the steeda adjustable bar.

They said the bar could still be produced. They are going to reach out to me next week to discuss purchasing.

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I've been exchanging emails with Addco too. I was told today that the 677 had different geometry and is a different diameter than the 1STA. And, they used to make end links with springs for the 677 sway bar, making it adjustable, but the end links were discontinued. I asked them to consider putting the spring end links back into production. I hope to hear back next week.

Hopefully, the end result of our conversations with Addco will lead to an adjustable rear sway bar being available again.
 

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On your C springs and steeda CC plates did you install your strut bushings for "stock height" or "one step"?

Stock is upto 1.25 drop. One step is more than 1.25 but less than 1.5.

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beyondEOD

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Thank you! I'm installing them now.

One other question I usually use a air impact to install the strut nut. Tockio says no but I could not get the strut rod to stay in place by hand.
b577419cface519f3a9e1a6a6ee885b2.jpg
667a793085d29dc55d4d96d1713e1c8d.jpg


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Thank you! I'm installing them now.

One other question I usually use a air impact to install the strut nut. Tockio says no but I could not get the strut rod to stay in place by hand.
b577419cface519f3a9e1a6a6ee885b2.jpg
667a793085d29dc55d4d96d1713e1c8d.jpg


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There should be flat spots on either side of the threads near the adjuster. You can use a wrench, usually a 10mm, to hold the strut rod in place. Put your (usually) 24mm wrench on the strut top nut, then slide the 10mm in place to keep the strut rod from turning. It doesn't require much torque at all. The Illuminas say 24 ft. lbs. That can be done by hand. Just check it periodically, sometimes they can work loose. You don't want to use an impact wrench on adjustable struts.
 

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