OP
OP
Might need to take you up on that. I’m going to look through the stash spots in the I&E shops at work tomorrow.
White's '95 GT "Unicorn"
- Thread starter white95
- Start date
Might need to take you up on that. I’m going to look through the stash spots in the I&E shops at work tomorrow.
White I saved screenshots from way the fawk back just for you. Cause I’m totally psychic!!!!
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Yup, that's the pic I had from my dash, it had never been removed since put in by the factory.. the colors may have been off from age, or smoking in the car, idk, I was just guessing at the rating from what was printed on the PCB...
The resistor is not needed to make the alternator charge. That is there in case the bulb burns out so the alternator will still have a circuit to excite the regulator. Look up 3g or 4g alternator wiring diagrams and plain and simple, big wire from battery, yellow wire to constant and green wire to ignition. My 2v was set up like that and charged great.
Resistor is needed to charge to the correct voltage though. It will charge lower without it cause it’s seeing the full charge currently on the wire. The resistor lowers the level seen by the alternator and then makes the alternator charge to a higher level.
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That is simply, not true. My 3g alternator charged at 14-14.2v all the time. My green wire just had switched 12v on it.
Ron Francis seems to think it’s ok without a resistor, and he only builds wiring harnesses for a living.
OP
OP
This is the way I have it wired now.
Then that’s a difference in the later wiring. The 94-95’s had to have that resistor or they wouldn’t charge correctly. Many people tried it and had issues, then put the resistor in and everything started working.
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OP
OP
I have read through countless old threads on various forums. There's a large number of instances where people with similar issues added the resistor and it worked fine. This is usually indicative of the dash light being blown for extended periods and the resistor eventually failing. There's a large number of people who have ripped the world apart in their cars to install standalone systems and have wired it the way I have [like the diagram above] and it charges just fine. There are guys on the Holley page who've wired theirs WITH the resistor in place and it caused an over current condition and smoked components. Those guys went with an older, one wire setup and had no further issues.
There is no simple fix, only multiple avenues to attempt. This includes using the HP to send a PWM + output @ 127Hz/70% duty to the alternator and skipping the Ford wiring altogether.
There is no simple fix, only multiple avenues to attempt. This includes using the HP to send a PWM + output @ 127Hz/70% duty to the alternator and skipping the Ford wiring altogether.
ttocs
Post Whore
Not true you can always install an alt with an off board voltage regulator like I did and then all this stock bs is bypassed. Unfortunately you will need to step up to a higher end competition style alt to do this but we said simple, not cheap
OP
OP
Not true you can always install an alt with an off board voltage regulator like I did and then all this stock bs is bypassed. Unfortunately you will need to step up to a higher end competition style alt to do this but we said simple, not cheap
That falls under “multiple avenues to try” and isn’t a terrible path just pricey.
MaximumRisk
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I wired it without a resistor and I have never had an issue
OP
OP
I’m leaning towards the alternator failing.
OP
OP
It was in fact the alternator.
Starts easier but still needs to be tuned. I’ll pull some plugs to inspect because they could be fouled from running this way, even briefly.
Starts easier but still needs to be tuned. I’ll pull some plugs to inspect because they could be fouled from running this way, even briefly.
ttocs
Post Whore
yea volts looks good but what up with that afr?
OP
OP
Probably fubared the sensor with the low voltage.. Have another being delivered 2nd day air because I’ll be (hopefully) tuning Friday. Don’t want to have to wait another week in case it’s bad.
MaximumRisk
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i dont know anything about how the Holley system works, but is there any chance that the sensor needs some sort of “scaling”? I ask because i also noticed you oil pressure is up there (about 100psi at idle) and i know there is scaling for pressure sensors.
ttocs
Post Whore
Low voltage messed it up? Not sure how that would happen or if it would why it didn't happen to mine when I was having voltage issues. I was getting below 10.5 while cranking for a while.
If he is using a sensor other than a holley sensor then he would need to scale it but mine came with the system. I also noticed the oil pressure is 100 psi?
If he is using a sensor other than a holley sensor then he would need to scale it but mine came with the system. I also noticed the oil pressure is 100 psi?
OP
OP
While I won’t rule out a scaling issue I’ll tell you this. The oil pressure is up there because I have a Boundary division 3V/GT500 oil pump with billet gears and it’s meant to be high volume..
The reason I cited the voltage discrepancy is the fact it’s possible the sensor didn’t heat properly and was wiped out with the car running super rich. Before I got the voltage straight it was “un-tunable” because apparently Holley is very sensitive to voltage. My tuner couldn’t do much with it except set it to where I could start it briefly to test voltage.
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