Forbidden Fruit, 6.8L PI 2v v10 build

[unterstutzung87]

Cool project cannot wait to see this thing running. You may be a one of one with this build, I have never seen a 6.8 v10 mustang. Would love to see what it runs in the quarter mile !

 

[Snorky]

Cool project cannot wait to see this thing running. You may be a one of one with this build, I have never seen a 6.8 v10 mustang. Would love to see what it runs in the quarter mile !

Thanks, I'm hoping to start assembling the short block in the next week or so. As for the quarter.. probably slow as molasses.. but it could probably tow a faster car to the track ;-)

 

[Snorky]

Been a while, spent a lot of time being super.. ultra busy with work and the house. Finally got a chance to check piston ring gap on the first and second rings.

All of the first rings were .009"-.010" and the secondary ring was .015"-.018". I think they will be fine as per ford specs.. if anyone has any opinions, let me know. This engine won't be a race engine or for boost yet. Stock style Mahle hypeurectic pistons 7cc dish to make 10:1 or 10.5:1 Didnt do the oil wipe rings.. probably should next time I go up.

Then I organized the pistons and rods with the rings respective to the bores

And then I assembled the rods to pistons being sure to orient the wrist pin offset opposite the crank throw. The stock rods have chamfers on both sides of the rod ends. So i dont think orientation matters much.

 

[96blak54]

The chamfers kind of dont matter. From what ive seen disassembling these modulars, the rods typically have a deeper chamfer on one side and will mate with the other rods deeper chamfer.

 

[96blak54]

Hey i noticed your blocks cylinder bores are not chamfer. Be sure to use an adjustable piston ring compressor when installing your pistons and not a nonadjustable predetermined bore size one.

 

[Snorky]

Hey i noticed your blocks cylinder bores are not chamfer. Be sure to use an adjustable piston ring compressor when installing your pistons and not a nonadjustable predetermined bore size one.

You mean not a 3.552 sleeve one?

 

[Snorky]

Hey i noticed your blocks cylinder bores are not chamfer. Be sure to use an adjustable piston ring compressor when installing your pistons and not a nonadjustable predetermined bore size one.

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Recommend something like that?

 

[96blak54]

Yes, just like that. Also including these type


NOT THIS TYPE

 

[96blak54]

Im not trying to be Mr Know-it-all here. Please dont misunderstand me, but ive seen to many times builders use the non-adjustable type and later complain about about oil control rings flipped out, broken rings and damged bores.

So its like this, the piston skirts overall diameter is relatively close to the actual bore of the cylinder and the piston crown where the rings are can be around .040" smaller diameter than the skirts/bore all depending of piston material. Using an adjustable ring compressor only at the ring area of the piston brings the rings to a smaller diameter than the bore. This helps rings transfer into the bore better especially when there is no bore chamfer. Just be sure the ring compressor is square to the deck surface bore pushing the piston in.

The non-adjustable compressor works best with a bore chamfer and alot of builders dont see these things and move forward with a build never realizing the sucess of their build is compromised by a small detail. In my opinion the adjustable compressor is the tool to use regardless.

This info is probably moot because you already know this but i just wanted to say hey i noticed something and wanted to say something. I want to see you suceed with this build because i think its cool.

 

[Snorky]

Im not trying to be Mr Know-it-all here. Please dont misunderstand me, but ive seen to many times builders use the non-adjustable type and later complain about about oil control rings flipped out, broken rings and damged bores.

So its like this, the piston skirts overall diameter is relatively close to the actual bore of the cylinder and the piston crown where the rings are can be around .040" smaller diameter than the skirts/bore all depending of piston material. Using an adjustable ring compressor only at the ring area of the piston brings the rings to a smaller diameter than the bore. This helps rings transfer into the bore better especially when there is no bore chamfer. Just be sure the ring compressor is square to the deck surface bore pushing the piston in.

The non-adjustable compressor works best with a bore chamfer and alot of builders dont see these things and move forward with a build never realizing the sucess of their build is compromised by a small detail. In my opinion the adjustable compressor is the tool to use regardless.

This info is probably moot because you already know this but i just wanted to say hey i noticed something and wanted to say something. I want to see you suceed with this build because i think its cool.

I'll take any advice from someone else's experiences that I can get, my career is full of humbling experiences. I'll put one of the adjustable ones on order, as I only have the non adjustable one for stock bore. When I drove up to the engine I took a peek and said ****... no chamfers for the non adjustable to sit in lol. So you saved me a bunch of time and aggrevation

 

[96blak54]

Way i see it, we all in this together. Lets help each other when we can.

Yea, id suggest passing that non adjustable off to someone else, but thats me.

 

[Snorky]

Well boys.. and maybe girls(wouldn't know) .. Hell has frozen over. The heads have returned from their 22 month sabbatical. Yeah.. there was no typo on that number


Hand ported/polished intake/exhaust runners, bowls, +1mm ss manley valves, bronze guides. BTR .600" springs. Repaired the exhaust manifold bolt holes. Excited about these.

Painter said he wanted to get the red car painted before it snows.. well.. this morning it snowed.. f-ing guy. This project with the heads and paint is teaching me a lot about people. Lol

The short block I will start assembling once I slap my green cars engine back together.. which I tried doing last night only I found a nick in the coating of one of the head gaskets and the other one I second guessed if I cleaned it well enough. So I'm going to get a new set and go in and start over on the one side. The other I will finish it. Then I need to make the call if I'm going to put it all back in eith the turbo again and continue this shit show or if I am going to buy some NA or blower cams and put it back in and run it NA until someone will trade me a blower for the turbo.

 

[white95]

Those heads

 

[lwarrior1016]

I’m concerned about the fact they didn’t clean the heads. That’s crazy.

 

[Snorky]

I’m concerned about the fact they didn’t clean the heads. That’s crazy.

He allegedly did clean them. I doubt tjese things will ever be pretty.. they came out of the titanic. I'm lucky he didn't tell me to find new ones to be honest. Wonder if I should take them up to a local shop to hot tank them

 

[lwarrior1016]

He allegedly did clean them. I doubt tjese things will ever be pretty.. they came out of the titanic. I'm lucky he didn't tell me to find new ones to be honest. Wonder if I should take them up to a local shop to hot tank them

You’d have to pull the valve seals if you did that though

 

[Snorky]

You’d have to pull the valve seals if you did that though

Sounds like a pain in the ass, probably not worth it to have visually appealing heads. I could always scuff and clean the outsides with degreaser, then mask and spray them an aluminum or gunmetal color... never considered painting heads though. Seems like a 1960s rebuild thing to do.

 

[brohontas]

hey y’all! I’m new to the forum and just finished reading thru this. I recently fell back down the v10 rabbit hole. Glad I found this thread.

I plan on using a manual v10 pcm and engine harness. I started working on pining through the wire diagrams to see what might need changing to integrate it to the mustang’s main harness.

I have an 04 GT manual. Already has a 417 Motorsport front end, and a pro-force tr3650. Lastly I’m finishing up a explorer diff/cobra irs rear. If anyone has gone this route for an irs I’d appreciate any help. Also I hope I can help with this build.

Edit: for those who care I added pics of it now, the front end, and why I chopped the front off. 500 miles after the paint/body work and the new trans, I was hit by a minivan.

 

[lwarrior1016]

hey y’all! I’m new to the forum and just finished reading thru this. I recently fell back down the v10 rabbit hole. Glad I found this thread.

I plan on using a manual v10 pcm and engine harness. I started working on pining through the wire diagrams to see what might need changing to integrate it to the mustang’s main harness.

I have an 04 GT manual. Already has a 417 Motorsport front end, and a pro-force tr3650. Lastly I’m finishing up a explorer diff/cobra irs rear. If anyone has gone this route for an irs I’d appreciate any help. Also I hope I can help with this build.

Edit: for those who care I added pics of it now, the front end, and why I chopped the front off. 500 miles after the paint/body work and the new trans, I was hit by a minivan.

Welcome to the forum.

Head over to the intro section and make an introduction thread. Say hello to everyone, and then promptly start a build thread with lots of pictures so we can follow along!

 

[Snorky]

hey y’all! I’m new to the forum and just finished reading thru this. I recently fell back down the v10 rabbit hole. Glad I found this thread.

I plan on using a manual v10 pcm and engine harness. I started working on pining through the wire diagrams to see what might need changing to integrate it to the mustang’s main harness.

I have an 04 GT manual. Already has a 417 Motorsport front end, and a pro-force tr3650. Lastly I’m finishing up a explorer diff/cobra irs rear. If anyone has gone this route for an irs I’d appreciate any help. Also I hope I can help with this build.

Edit: for those who care I added pics of it now, the front end, and why I chopped the front off. 500 miles after the paint/body work and the new trans, I was hit by a minivan.

Welcome!! Glad you dove right in on my build thread, it's important to share information on the idiosyncrasies of such an odd swap since it has next to NO coverage aside from 3 or 4 people who took a picture of an engine bay using a potato. As for the wiring debacle. I have a v10 harness, ecu and cluster and I am not sure if I should run that and try to figure out how to get it to communicate with the mustang cluster.. and then see if an sct programmer can tune it for the ported heads and cams.. or if I should modify the v10 harness and use a ms3pro Evo ecu and either make the cluster work or take the easy path with a plug and play digital.

Also I'm digging that 417 motorsports front end. That thing is sick!! Sorry to hear about the accident though, a major kick in the testicles.. the 417 kit should make it way easier to install the boat anchor and. Figure out headers. I will only be running a UPR tubular K when the time comes.