HELLPPP!! FUEL PUMP WILL NOT WORK

Flade

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Ok let’s cover a few things here. 1st the conector you couldn’t identify. Was it the one in the left trunk snapped up against the bracket for the Keyless entry? That is used to program new my fobs. You short the pins to put it in program mode. Also the plastic loop above t is to add a factory alarm. If you can find one used, it just slides in and. The connectors are taped up behind the trim panels.

Now to your starting problem. You should be getting close to battery voltage at the fuel pump. Less than about 10 volts and pump will not run. In my experience, low voltage at the pump can be caused by a bad ECU. There is a wire from the Fuel pump relay in the CCRM to the ECU. The ECU uses it to sense voltage to the Pump. Sometimes when the ECU goes bad it shorts this wire causing low voltage to the pump. If you don’t have PATS on a 96 you can swap the ECU to test it. I seem to think you can remove the ECU and see if the pump now primes, but can’t remember for sure if it will prime with the ECU disconnected. When son’ ECU went bad We bypassed the wire with a wire from the battery to prove that was the problem. He drove the car like that for a couple days until we replaced the ECU.
 

Werecow

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That's where I've been thinking all along... It had a engine swap done to it and I don't think that the ECU is working with this engine properly. That's why bed voltage to that switch, it's got a lot more issues with the wiring I suspect...
 

Will Rey

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let me put this plain an simple. You should have the exact same voltage on those two wires at the inertia switch no matter if its 12v, or 6. The fact its dropping so much voltage leads me to believe it is the switch but again this is only if you were measuring it the way we told you and I am still not sure it is. Again you can test this easily by simply disconnect the switch and figuring out a way to connect the two wires that go to the switch. If it were me I would strip away a 1/4" of insulation a few inches down from the harness on both wires, and then simply twist them together temporarily. Cover it with some tape to be sure it does not short out and then see if the car will start. If it does, you switch was the problem and replacing it and putting some tape on the wires where you stripped them should take all of 5 mins. Dropping your tank to replace the pump I will bet will take you 3-4 hours by the sound of how this is going so far. If it were me I am lazy and would do the 10 min test before I ever started to drop the tank but that is up to you. I am out, good luck.
Ok thank you
 

Will Rey

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Ok I have great news I fixed the problem the CCRM was bad I now get 12 volts everywhere. At the inertia switch and at the fuel pump connector but now I have a second problem. The car won’t get power when I first checked everything the car was in the on position and it go power then out of nowhere it stopped getting power and now when I put it in the on position nothing. I recently charged the battery. And when I leave the car sitting for a while it works fine but then loses power again shortly after. I connected jumper cables and tried to jump it but still with the cables connected it still isn’t getting power. Any ideas?
 

ttocs

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sounds like your battery is dying or your leaving something on to drain it. Make sure the battery and ground connections are tight you should not be able to move them at all.
 

ttocs

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fusable links do not blow from backwards current, just excessive current but they are easy to test. Now your ecu, ignition and other critical things are probably not happy including the starter that might have been cranking backwards....
 

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