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The assembly process, without the blood and expletives, continued:
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White's '95 GT "Unicorn"
- Thread starter white95
- Start date
OP
OP
How about that? It doesn’t leak! Tried to start it but the battery is weak and needs replacing. I’m ready to blow it up, uhm hear this thing run.
I’m happy that this mess will be hidden behind the fender liners.
I’m happy that this mess will be hidden behind the fender liners.
OP
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I think I’m on the verge of the first start. Belt, hoses, fluids, prime the oil & fuel system, check for leaks and see if the stupid thing runs!
One year later and I’m on the verge on the first start, again. A lot has changed!
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Waiting for a few bits to arrive this week so I can try again next weekend.
1. Fuel pressure gauge
2. Fuel pressure sensor
3. Adaptor for installing 1 & 2
4. Tick Performance DDPM
- Keeps the dash from turning off while cranking the engine or quick cycling between KE/KO.
1. Fuel pressure gauge
2. Fuel pressure sensor
3. Adaptor for installing 1 & 2
4. Tick Performance DDPM
- Keeps the dash from turning off while cranking the engine or quick cycling between KE/KO.
OP
OP
I’m going to splash some more fuel in the tank and leak check again. Just to be sure. Once that is done, I’ll finalize the rear section of the fuel line install (ty-wrap those suckers) and then install the fuel tank.
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Oh, I bought an overly expensive battery because it had studs which suited my needs lol
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Oh man, I’m on a spending roll now!
ttocs
Post Whore
now ya got me jealous
ttocs
Post Whore
I just got a text today that they just started running their black friday sales.
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Forget about that shit, every year!
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Rendered my fuel gauge useless by losing the vent plug. It popped out and went straight into the hole in the frame rail. Removed the adaptor and connected the sensor directly to the regulator.
Unicorn 1 / White95 0
Wasn’t registering any fuel pressure so I decided to reverse the fuel pump polarity. Still no pressure. Removed one of the return lines and ran a line into a gas can to see if there was any flow at all. There wasn’t any. Reversed the fuel pressure back and nadda. As a reach, I put about two more gallons in the tank.
Bingo. 30 psi. Made a few adjustments and left it around 43 psi.
Unicorn 2 / White95 0
Let’s see... Once I sorted that shit, I turned my focus back to starting this bitch. Which hasn’t happened. I’m losing power to the ECU while cranking. Seems the circuit I chose in the ignition tested good for continuity with the key on and the key in the start position BUT when testing with voltage, it drags down to mV. This is why my dash flickers on and off while cranking since it has can bus power. I even bought a Tick Performance DDPM to prevent this.
sigh..
In troubleshooting this, I discovered that I somehow left the nut for the main ground off. This helped but not much. It did spin the starter faster so voltage drop was lessened!
Pyrrhic victory.
Unicorn 3 / White95 0
Decided to connect the switched power lead to a constant source and try this again. I’m having issues with the cam and crank sensors starting as it’s not registering RPMs while cranking. More work to do..
Unicorn 4 /White95 0
Unicorn 1 / White95 0
Wasn’t registering any fuel pressure so I decided to reverse the fuel pump polarity. Still no pressure. Removed one of the return lines and ran a line into a gas can to see if there was any flow at all. There wasn’t any. Reversed the fuel pressure back and nadda. As a reach, I put about two more gallons in the tank.
Bingo. 30 psi. Made a few adjustments and left it around 43 psi.
Unicorn 2 / White95 0
Let’s see... Once I sorted that shit, I turned my focus back to starting this bitch. Which hasn’t happened. I’m losing power to the ECU while cranking. Seems the circuit I chose in the ignition tested good for continuity with the key on and the key in the start position BUT when testing with voltage, it drags down to mV. This is why my dash flickers on and off while cranking since it has can bus power. I even bought a Tick Performance DDPM to prevent this.
sigh..
In troubleshooting this, I discovered that I somehow left the nut for the main ground off. This helped but not much. It did spin the starter faster so voltage drop was lessened!
Pyrrhic victory.
Unicorn 3 / White95 0
Decided to connect the switched power lead to a constant source and try this again. I’m having issues with the cam and crank sensors starting as it’s not registering RPMs while cranking. More work to do..
Unicorn 4 /White95 0
01yellercobra
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I went through the same thing when I pressure tested my fuel system. I had to add gas to get it to pump anything through the system.
ttocs
Post Whore
unless you scraped the paint on the frame rail under that mount that is still not a good ground. I had voltage problems as well that I had to track down as you might remember. Set your meter to resistance and try testing the different grounding points(from chassis to motor, motor to battery, battery to chassis) and make sure that they are low enough. IF cranking is getting pulled down below 10.4v the system is not going to be happy. I got the tick module hoping it would fix my problems but its just a band aid.
Now for the no crank/cam sensor, what ignition system are you using agian?
Now for the no crank/cam sensor, what ignition system are you using agian?
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Live and learn right? It dawned on me the pump wasn’t priming so I decided to add enough to fully submerge it.
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True, but frame rail ground is sufficient and I did grind the paint off with a flap wheel until bare metal. The engine block ground, however, was ineffective because I hadn’t installed the nut. Distinctly recalled saying “I’ll find one that fits later.”
Damnit....
I’m using 2003 Cobra coils and the Holley COP harness. I’m going to verify polarity next weekend.
Also, after doing some research, I’m going to look at the firing order to see if that’s an issue. Apparently the stock firing order doesn’t work for some people. Which seems strange.
https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?2590-Magnetic-amp-Hall-Effect-Crank-Cam-Sensor-Setup
Holley Literature said:
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ttocs
Post Whore
that side of the ground looks fine. I would recommend replacing and upgrading the stock ground wires. You might also need to consider running a new power wire for the starter. I was able to shave about 8 ft of wire off of the length of the starter wire as well as run all new = less voltage dropped.
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ECU power loss while cranking issue fixed. Just needed to pick up power at the #18 fuse:
ttocs
Post Whore
look for the red/light green at the ignition harness
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You're late but that was it.
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So, I can answer this now! GPS!
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