OnyxCobra
Post Whore
i like the colors on the brakes, interested to see the finished product.
Completed my Coyote Swap
- Thread starter Paul
- Start date
hello cat.
I picked up my package from FedEx today. 2012 GT500 leather takeoffs. These came from Rehagen Racing. I wanted the black / white stripe ones since my current interior is black with white stripes. I like it. It gives the interior a little definition instead of all black.
Front Seats:
Back Seats:
One of the Recaro covers has a very small tear right above the seam along the back of the seat. I'm not sure how noticeable this will be once it's installed, but I wish it wasn't there. Not sure what can even be done about this.
A few more parts are still coming in the mail.
Paul.
Front Seats:
Back Seats:
One of the Recaro covers has a very small tear right above the seam along the back of the seat. I'm not sure how noticeable this will be once it's installed, but I wish it wasn't there. Not sure what can even be done about this.
A few more parts are still coming in the mail.
Paul.
very nice seat.. I has cat that looks like your cat..
one more post paul... break 10k
pilks
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2009
- Messages
- 590
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- 11
Nice build, great parts. That tear would drive me nuts, even if you cant see it.
duff daddy
Legend
Take it to a dealer, most have.a guy that does interior or leather repairs on site for cheap money. Typically you deal with the guy not the dealer on something that small
So it takes a certain level of crazy to start taking apart of a set of expensive seats, but I know in the end this will be awesome. When I'm done, I'm going to have power, adjustable lumbar, heated, leather Recaros. The Recaro seats in the Shelby GT500 are manual, not heated, and don't have adjustable lumbars. These will be the nicest OEM seats never installed in a Mustang, and they will work just like factory. I'm very excited to have this project done.
I removed the FRPP cloth skins last night using the write-up by TOB on SVTP. He's absolutely right that removing the harness pass-through clamshells is the hardest part. However, after you've done the first one, the last three are easy. I can do them in five minutes now. I used a broad, flat prybar (the one in TOBs thread) to push the clamshell up or down so I could see the small clip, then found that a pick or an awl is the easiest tool to pop the little plastic clips apart. Once they're apart, I push the pick right under the plastic tab and through the split between the two shells, and leave it there so it doesn't re-connect while I'm doing the other clips. So keep mind, it helps to have four picks.
I also did not heed TOBs warning about the little metal c-clip that retains the seatback adjustment lever. It popped, and went flying somewhere in my house. I've still not found it. Not sure how I'm going to remedy that situation yet. The other one I was more careful on.
Overall, disassembling the seats isn't hard at all. I was EXTREMELY careful and didn't damage anything at all. The dumbasses who slice the small holes in the fabric where they attach to the hooks in under the harness passthroughs are just lazy bastards. It only takes a minute more to carefully remove them without damaging them. If my new seat warmers were here from Tousley, I'd be knee-deep in doing the whole conversion right now, but I'll have to be patient. I'm sure reassembly is much more difficult than disassembly. Still, it's all pretty straightforward.
Here's my brand new FRPP cloth skins that I'll be selling.
Any my seats awaiting some new parts. It will be a couple weekends before I can start back on the project again.
Paul.
I removed the FRPP cloth skins last night using the write-up by TOB on SVTP. He's absolutely right that removing the harness pass-through clamshells is the hardest part. However, after you've done the first one, the last three are easy. I can do them in five minutes now. I used a broad, flat prybar (the one in TOBs thread) to push the clamshell up or down so I could see the small clip, then found that a pick or an awl is the easiest tool to pop the little plastic clips apart. Once they're apart, I push the pick right under the plastic tab and through the split between the two shells, and leave it there so it doesn't re-connect while I'm doing the other clips. So keep mind, it helps to have four picks.
I also did not heed TOBs warning about the little metal c-clip that retains the seatback adjustment lever. It popped, and went flying somewhere in my house. I've still not found it. Not sure how I'm going to remedy that situation yet. The other one I was more careful on.
Overall, disassembling the seats isn't hard at all. I was EXTREMELY careful and didn't damage anything at all. The dumbasses who slice the small holes in the fabric where they attach to the hooks in under the harness passthroughs are just lazy bastards. It only takes a minute more to carefully remove them without damaging them. If my new seat warmers were here from Tousley, I'd be knee-deep in doing the whole conversion right now, but I'll have to be patient. I'm sure reassembly is much more difficult than disassembly. Still, it's all pretty straightforward.
Here's my brand new FRPP cloth skins that I'll be selling.
Any my seats awaiting some new parts. It will be a couple weekends before I can start back on the project again.
Paul.
Also, an update on painting my Brembos. I'm having a lot of trouble with the black lettering for some reason. When I peel the stencils, it's tearing the edges of the lettering and looks like shit. I'm not sure if it's just cheap paint (the Race Red paint that was expensive peels perfectly) or if I'm applying too much paint, or maybe I need to peel it before it dries. Either way, I'm out of stencils now and need to order some more. I'm a little frustrated, but I'll get it perfect before I move on. It's just taking more time than I thought.
Stencils on.
Masked.
Sprayed.
Removed.
Up close. You can see how much better the red paint is.
Stencils on.
Masked.
Sprayed.
Removed.
Up close. You can see how much better the red paint is.
lmfao, perfection must be achieved!
the.greg
Well-Known Member
I suggest peeling the stencils on the brake calipers before the paint is totally dry. Those seats are gonna be amazing.
My 2011 GT had the 401A leather option, but since I’m doing the front Recaros anyway with Shelby leather, I wanted to retain the back seat and have it match. My car is a daily driver and boulevard cruiser, so I thought keeping the back seat was a good idea.
I forgot to take a picture of the rear seat installed before I began. To remove the seat cushion, just find the two plastic “posts†under the seat that install to the floor pan. Push on them to release, then just lift up and it comes out. Takes two seconds.
Here’s the seat back after the cushion is removed.
Here’s the pivot sold the seats can fold down. It’s held in a place by one bolt that you’ll need a 13mm socket to remove it.
You’ll also need to remove the two bolts on either side of the seats. Then the whole seat back pops out.
We’ll start with the back seat cushion.
When you flip it over, you’ll see a bunch of plastic clips holding the skin on. The pics below are not all-inclusive, but you get the idea.
There is also on plastic push-pin on either side of the seat.
I used a trim removal tool to pop this. Besides the 13mm socket, it’s actually the only other tool you need to do this whole job.
A few of the clips push into slots in the plastic seat base, rather than clipping on an edge. The trim removal tool can help with these, or a pair of long-nose pliers might help too. Still, it’s not hard. Once you’ve unclipped everything, you can just pull the skin off. I removed most of them, but the clips on the leading edge were a little tight so I started peeling the skin off from the back all the way around the front, then the clips came off easily. Here’s what you’re left with .
Then grab your new skin, and start re-installing everything. This is a pretty straightforward job, with a bit of tugging to get everything seated just right. (pun intended) Make sure you get the seams driven down into the grooves in the foam so the Velcro attaches and pulls everything tight. Here’s the finished seat cushion.
Sit back and take some satisfaction at completing the cushion, because the seat backs are a little more involved. Still not difficult, but it takes a little longer. Here’s your starting place.
Flip it over, and look at the corner for a small Velcro tab. You’ll need to unhook this.
Moving to the other corner, you’ll have the familiar plastic joints that are used all over the interior upholstery. They’re basically interlocking plastic tabs that you snap together and fold over to hold everything tight. Once you take one apart, you’ll see how they work and go back together. Lift up, and pry them apart. This corner one is easy and you can actually slide the two pieces apart.
I forgot to take a picture of the rear seat installed before I began. To remove the seat cushion, just find the two plastic “posts†under the seat that install to the floor pan. Push on them to release, then just lift up and it comes out. Takes two seconds.
Here’s the seat back after the cushion is removed.
Here’s the pivot sold the seats can fold down. It’s held in a place by one bolt that you’ll need a 13mm socket to remove it.
You’ll also need to remove the two bolts on either side of the seats. Then the whole seat back pops out.
We’ll start with the back seat cushion.
When you flip it over, you’ll see a bunch of plastic clips holding the skin on. The pics below are not all-inclusive, but you get the idea.
There is also on plastic push-pin on either side of the seat.
I used a trim removal tool to pop this. Besides the 13mm socket, it’s actually the only other tool you need to do this whole job.
A few of the clips push into slots in the plastic seat base, rather than clipping on an edge. The trim removal tool can help with these, or a pair of long-nose pliers might help too. Still, it’s not hard. Once you’ve unclipped everything, you can just pull the skin off. I removed most of them, but the clips on the leading edge were a little tight so I started peeling the skin off from the back all the way around the front, then the clips came off easily. Here’s what you’re left with .
Then grab your new skin, and start re-installing everything. This is a pretty straightforward job, with a bit of tugging to get everything seated just right. (pun intended) Make sure you get the seams driven down into the grooves in the foam so the Velcro attaches and pulls everything tight. Here’s the finished seat cushion.
Sit back and take some satisfaction at completing the cushion, because the seat backs are a little more involved. Still not difficult, but it takes a little longer. Here’s your starting place.
Flip it over, and look at the corner for a small Velcro tab. You’ll need to unhook this.
Moving to the other corner, you’ll have the familiar plastic joints that are used all over the interior upholstery. They’re basically interlocking plastic tabs that you snap together and fold over to hold everything tight. Once you take one apart, you’ll see how they work and go back together. Lift up, and pry them apart. This corner one is easy and you can actually slide the two pieces apart.
More of the same with the large clip at the seat bottom.
Once you get it open, lift the flap and you’ll find some Velcro strips attached in the middle. Detach these.
Now you’re going to need to start pushing the skin up toward the top of the seat. You won’t be able to remove it entirely because it will be stuck under the headrest, which we’ll remove next.
Flip it over and you’ll see the foam pad.
Lift the foam pad and you’ll see a metal box. This whole assembly is what holds the headrests in place.
There are two plastic buttons just above the metal box. It helps to have another set of hands for this part. Push both buttons and have someone pull the headrest out of the seat back assembly.
Here’s a better look at what everything looks like without the cushion in the way.
Now we start on the headrest.
The two flaps at the bottom of the headrest just snap together. There’s a little groove in one flap, and a t-shaped tab in the other.
Seam pulled apart. Hecho en Mexico.
Carefully pull the material out from around the headrest pushbutton.
After that, all you do is pull the headrest internals out of the skin. Very easy. Here’s what you’re left with.
This was not made in America, or Mexico I would guess.
Reinstall the new cover, and your headrest is done. Then, back to the seat back.
Here’s the new Shelby skin installed. Don’t forget to lace the seatback release pull through the side of each seat so you can fold your seats down later.
Do that twice, and you’ll have a complete rear seat all done. Mine still had a few wrinkles in certain places, probably from being boxes up, but I think that will release over time with some good old fashioned Phoenix heat.
Then reinstall them in your car, and voila! Done!
Finally, you’ll have your old skins left over in case you ever want to return to stock, or sell them.
The whole job takes maybe a few hours. It's pretty darn easy I think. Definitely makes the interior look sharp. With the low cost and availability of takeoffs, it is definitely an excellent upgrade. You spend all your time in the interior, so might as well make it look nice.
Paul.
Once you get it open, lift the flap and you’ll find some Velcro strips attached in the middle. Detach these.
Now you’re going to need to start pushing the skin up toward the top of the seat. You won’t be able to remove it entirely because it will be stuck under the headrest, which we’ll remove next.
Flip it over and you’ll see the foam pad.
Lift the foam pad and you’ll see a metal box. This whole assembly is what holds the headrests in place.
There are two plastic buttons just above the metal box. It helps to have another set of hands for this part. Push both buttons and have someone pull the headrest out of the seat back assembly.
Here’s a better look at what everything looks like without the cushion in the way.
Now we start on the headrest.
The two flaps at the bottom of the headrest just snap together. There’s a little groove in one flap, and a t-shaped tab in the other.
Seam pulled apart. Hecho en Mexico.
Carefully pull the material out from around the headrest pushbutton.
After that, all you do is pull the headrest internals out of the skin. Very easy. Here’s what you’re left with.
This was not made in America, or Mexico I would guess.
Reinstall the new cover, and your headrest is done. Then, back to the seat back.
Here’s the new Shelby skin installed. Don’t forget to lace the seatback release pull through the side of each seat so you can fold your seats down later.
Do that twice, and you’ll have a complete rear seat all done. Mine still had a few wrinkles in certain places, probably from being boxes up, but I think that will release over time with some good old fashioned Phoenix heat.
Then reinstall them in your car, and voila! Done!
Finally, you’ll have your old skins left over in case you ever want to return to stock, or sell them.
The whole job takes maybe a few hours. It's pretty darn easy I think. Definitely makes the interior look sharp. With the low cost and availability of takeoffs, it is definitely an excellent upgrade. You spend all your time in the interior, so might as well make it look nice.
Paul.
Dang, recommending this to a friend. Nice stuff Paul!
pilks
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2009
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- 590
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- 11
Wow nice job, hope you find that piece you launched.
That is soow sweet Paul. I love custom touches and i'd say that Powered, heated, FRPP Recaros with a matching interior qualifies. Nice work and then some. SVT can kiss your ass.
On the brake stencil you may want to get some sort of etching paint from a paint supply store. they can mix up spray cans.
plan B- hit it with a light coat of adhesion promoter then the paint and peel off the stencil right after you spray it. don't let it dry at all.
plan c- u could also get the BREMBO cut from a vinyl guy and stick it on. I have high temp vinyl decals on my brakes that are over 10 years old. still shine.
On the brake stencil you may want to get some sort of etching paint from a paint supply store. they can mix up spray cans.
plan B- hit it with a light coat of adhesion promoter then the paint and peel off the stencil right after you spray it. don't let it dry at all.
plan c- u could also get the BREMBO cut from a vinyl guy and stick it on. I have high temp vinyl decals on my brakes that are over 10 years old. still shine.
Thanks Jeff! I'm very excited to finish this project. My seat warmers came in this week, so I'm hoping to do the front seats next weekend.
I forgot to order more stencils this week, but I will do that this weekend. I'm determined to make this work. I'll do vinyl stickers only as a last resort. I am a glutton for punishment. (and a perfectionist)
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